Category: Tropical Style

Plum tree (Prunus spp.) Size varies, depending on the species and cultivar. The rootstock onto which a tree is grafted also impacts the height. The adult size of this tree may also be affected by growing conditions. Some plum trees boom and easily reach their entire size in dry soil with an alkaline pH, while others will fight to live and could be stunted.

Drought-Tolerant Plum Trees

Wild or American plum trees (Prunus americana) and also chickasaw plums (P. angustifolia) are drought-tolerant species which grow well with supplemental moisture or at dry conditions. American plums can grow to a mature height of 20 to 40 feet but usually top out in a height and canopy width of 25 feet. They produce fragrant, white flowers with a pale pink blush at the spring, followed by 1-inch diameter burgundy, red or yellow-brown plums. They’re hardy at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 to 8. Clay, loamy or sandy soil with acidic, neutral or alkaline pH is fine using a full or partial sunlight exposure. Chickasaw plums vary in their adult height. They can grow in shrub form using a mature height of 4 to 10 feet or in tree form, to a height of 25 feet. These are late-winter blooming plums that produce fragrant, white flowers followed by tart, 1/2-inch diameter reddish to yellow plums. Chickasaw plums grow in USDA zones 6 to 9 and grow well in acidic clay, loamy or sandy soil that drains fast. Full sun is best, however they will grow in partial shade.

Dwarf Plum Trees

European plum trees (P. domestica) usually grow to 25 feet tall. They produce fragrant, white spring flowers followed by an abundance of edible black, yellow or green 1/2- to 1 1/2-inch diameter plums. Clay, loamy or sandy soil with acidic, neutral or alkaline pH is great for this particular tree having a full sun exposure. It grows best when the ground is kept uniformly moist. The “Stanley” dwarf plum cultivar (P. domestica “Stanley”) comes at three heights. The standard height is 15 to 20 feet while the semi-dwarf is 12 to 15 feet tall and the dwarf is 8 to 10 feet tall. They all develop a canopy width very similar to their height. The species and dwarf cultivars have comparable growth requirements in addition to flowering and fruiting habits. They are usually hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9, though that varies depending on the cultivar and rootstock.

Plum Trees With Burgundy Foliage

Cherry plum trees (P. cerasifera) may grow into a mature height of 15 to 30 feet and canopy width of 15 to 25 feet but typically grow to 15 to 25 feet tall with a canopy width around 20 feet. In the spring they produce white flowers with a pink blush, followed by an abundance of blue, crimson, 1/2- to 1 1/2-inch diameter plums. The leaf is burgundy- to bronze-green. The “Krauter Vesuvius” cultivar (P. cerasifera “Krauter Vesuvius”) rises to a height of 20 to 25 feet using a 15-foot-wide canopy and deep burgundy foliage. In late winter or early spring, “Krauter Vesuvius” trees produce fragrant pink flowers, but a few, if any, 1 1/2- to 3-inch diameter purple plums. Cherry plum trees are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8. They grow best in loamy, acidic soil that drains fast in sunlight but will also grow in clay and sandy soil or using a partial colour exposure.

Plum Trees With Big Fruit

Japanese plum trees (P. salicina) and Mexican plum trees (P. mexicana) produce big, creamy plums which may be around 3 inches in diameter. Both species grow to a width and height of approximately 25 feet and produce white spring flowers. Japanese plum tree fruit can be green, purple, yellow or red. Mexican plum tree fruit is purple or red. Both species grow in clay, loamy or sandy soil using an acidic, neutral or alkaline pH in full sunlight and are hardy in USDA zones 6 to 8.

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Appropriate watering technique is among the most important components of growing tomatoes. Watering too much or too little can cause poor plant health and diminished yield. During planting, it is important to provide the plants plenty of water to allow them to establish roots in the new soil.

Planting Tomatoes from the Ground

When planting tomatoes directly into the ground, it is ideal to plant while the ground is moist but not soggy. This enables the initial watering to drain more easily through the ground. Directly after planting, water the area around the bottom of the plant until it begins to puddle on the surface, then enable the standing water to soak into the soil. Water once more, again, allowing to puddle marginally before draining through. This will ensure the plant has enough water while it sends its origins in the new soil.

Planting Tomatoes in Pots

Tomatoes grow well in containers and also you should care for them in a similar manner as when you plant them directly into the ground. After planting, soak the ground surrounding the plant thoroughly until the water begins to run out the bottom of the container. This means the water has drained all of the way through the ground.

Future Water Care

In general, tomato crops thrive when watered deeply and infrequently. Supply 1 to 2 inches of water per week, whether through rainfall or supplemental watering. Every time you water, soak the soil thoroughly to allow water to reach the roots deep in the ground. Potted tomato crops require more frequent watering than those in mattresses because the soil loses moisture faster.

Water-Related Issues

Incorrect watering is a most important cause of disease in tomato plants. Light, frequent watering will lead to poor root systems and poor plant health. Inconsistent water, whether to little or too much, could cause blossom-end rot, a disease which causes large dark spots on the seams of their tomatoes. Mulching the area around tomato crops can help maintain a more even level of dirt.

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While there are several factors to consider when making decisions concerning plant spacing, regard the minimal distances for plant health and cultivation. Sand cherries are vigorous, distinguishing shrubs that aren’t hard to develop, but they do require sun to retain their best characteristics. Avoid crowding and shading from company plants.

Plant Spacing

Space plants at a space that allows room because of their height and spread at maturity. For instance, if a tree reaches 5 feet in height and spread, then plant it a minimum of 5 feet from an adjacent tree that also grows to 5 feet, or further if the nearest tree is broader. If planted close to a tree, the tree canopy should have a clear distance of 5 feet from the bottom. Just shade-tolerant plants can be planted under a tree canopy.

Sand Cherry Shrubs

Western sand cherry (Prunus bessayi) is a winter-hardy tree for USDA planting zones 3 to 6, as wide as it is tall, with an open, spreading habit. A favorite ornamental hybrid is the “Purpleleaf” sand cherry (Prunus x cistena), which includes reddish-purple foliage. It is among the first shrubs to bloom in the spring, with the blossoms appearing before the leaves. It is possible to plant mud cherries as a hedge, massed for border planting or where the purple foliage will comparison to surrounding plants. Sand cherries require full sun and moist, well-drained dirt conditions.

Sand Cherry Spacing from Shrubs

Sand cherries are usually 5 to 6 ft in width and height, although there is some variation, depending on the cultivar. When planted as hedging, or in circles, space them in 5 or 6 feet on center from each other. If planted near another species, then add half the spread of this second species to half the spread of this sand cherry. That means you should plant a 6-foot mud cherry situated alongside your honeysuckle (Lonicera species, zones 3 to 7) with a spread of 8 ft, a minimum of 6 1/2 feet from the honeysuckle.

Sand Cherry Spacing from Trees and Perennials

Because they don’t tolerate shade, plant sand cherries away from the canopy of a tree. When you plant the 6-foot mud cherry close to a tree with a canopy of 20 feet, then it is spaced at a distance of 13 feet. The exact same process applies to perennials — planted next to a perennial with an 18-inch spread, space the sand cherry 45 inches from the perennial. Monitor all crops as they develop, and adjust as necessary to accommodate individual plant growth.

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Arborvitae (Thuja spp.) are evergreen members of the cedar family and are native to the eastern two-thirds of North America. Translated from Latin, the name means ” tree of life” Eastern Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis) is sturdy across USDA zones 2 to 8 and is most commonly planted. Giant Red Cedar (Thuja pilcata) is sturdy over USDA Zones 5 to 8 and can be widely planted. Both are widely tolerant of a wide range of climate and soil conditions, but perform best in well-drained, loamy soil with a rather impartial pH.

Importance of pH

Soil pH is a main concern when planting arborvitae. Acidic soils have a lower pH value, from 0.0 to 6.9, and alkaline or basic soils have a higher pH value, from 7.1 to 14.0. A value of 7.0 indicates neutral soil. Essential nutrients in the soil are more readily available to arborvitae origins once the soil pH falls at an optimal range of slightly acidic to slightly alkaline. Nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus are most easily transferable in soils with a pH selection of 6.0 to 8.0, as are most secondary elements such as iron, magnesium, sulfur and copper.

Testing Soil pH

Prior to planting, a soil test will identify your land’s pH. The best pH for arborvitae is 6.8 to 7.2, as stated by the University of Texas in Austin. However, many members of the species will tolerate a pH range from acidic to alkaline, according to the Ohio Department of Natural Resources. Highly acidic soils may be neutralized to the desired pH with lime or dolomite. Highly alkaline soils can be neutralized with sulfur derivatives.

Improving Problem Soils

Arborvitae specimens will flourish when planted in soils that are high in organic material and well-drained. If your soil is loam or sandy loam, then it may not need to be amended. However, silt beds or tight clay soils may be improved with the incorporation of organic matter. Working at a 3- to 4-inch layer of compost, aged manure and melted pine bark to a depth of 18 inches will help get the tree’s roots off to a strong start by increasing aeration. This practice will also improve transport of pH-adjusting alterations more extensively by improving drainage.

Additional Factors

It is also important to site your arborvitae nicely. Thuja species and cultivars are tolerant of a mild quantity of shade but favor growing in full sun, if possible. Always dry soils or areas that are densely shaded are not conducive to healthy development. Arborvitae selections can range in height from 8 feet to more than 150, so look at the mature height you’d like to achieve with your plantings and choose varieties carefully.

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“Little Richard” abelia (Abelia x grandiflora “Little Richard”), hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 6 through 9, is a compact shrub with shiny green leaves and attractive white blossoms that appear in late spring or early summer. With or without routine pruning, this plant only grows to a maximum size of about 3 feet, making it a smart shrub for smaller spaces.

When To Prune

In moderate climates, like USDA zones 8 through 9, “Little Richard” will overwinter with minimal, if any, damage. Pruning done in the end of winter and the beginning of the spring will enable you to shape your plant while you eliminate some damaged, diseased or dead branches. If pruning in early spring, then do so before the onset of new growth. “Little Richard” shrubs are well-known for their fast growing addiction. Whatever is lost during moderate pruning will be regained throughout the growing season.

Rejuvination Pruning

“Little Richard” reacts well to severe pruning. Older bushes with twiggy growth or bare spots can benefit from this kind of pruning. Some gardeners cut their “Little Richard” into the bottom biennially to keep a lush, full shrub. You can perform this type of pruning by cutting down the main stem of the shrub to about 6 inches tall. As with other kinds of pruning, this must be completed in late winter or early spring, before the onset of new growth.

Pruning Tips

Sanitize your pruning tools before you use them to protect against the spread of diseases. An easy-to-make sanitizing solution combines 1 part bleach with 3 parts water. Wash the tools in the process for five minutes and then rinse them before use. For moderate pruning, you ought to examine the abelia and decide which components need to be eliminated and which components can remain. Dead, dry and leafless limbs should be your primary focus. If shaping your bush, decide beforehand how tall you wish your bush to be, and exactly what shape you wish it to take. Severe pruning is easier. After discovering the principal stem or stem, chop the tree off in the foundation, leaving approximately 6 inches of stem over the surface of the soil.

Applications

For moderate pruning, hand pruners are inclined to be all you may need. These tools can cut branches up to 3/4 inch thick. For severe pruning, in most cases the best tools to use are lopping shears. Lopping shears can cut stems up to 1 3/4 inches thick. If trying to decide between bypass pruners and anvil pruners, bypass pruners are often less damaging to the plant. Any stems larger than 2 inches in diameter might call for a fine-toothed saw.

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Watermelons require warm weather and a long growing season to come up with their sweet, juicy flesh. Most watermelon production takes place in the South, but home gardeners all over the United States can grow watermelons. Growing watermelons successfully requires enough space to them and well-drained soil amended with compost or manure. These melons also require hot summers with cold conditions, but growers in the North can also produce watermelons by planting early-maturing varieties.

Cold Temperatures

Because watermelons have been warm-season crops, they cannot withstand a freeze or even a light frost. A air temperature of 33 degrees Fahrenheit or under kills watermelons. The best time to sow watermelon seeds or set out watermelon transplants is just two to three weeks after the last spring frost date. Start watermelon seeds indoors six weeks before spring’s final average frost date. The seeds will germinate in 10 days once the soil temperature is 65 F, but they germinate best when the soil temperature is 95 F.

Ideal Temperatures

Extremes in temperatures may influence watermelon growth and development. The finest daytime air temperature for growing watermelons is from 70 to 90 F. Watermelons grown where nighttime temperatures drop below 50 F drop flavor. The plants frequently drop flowers and don’t set fruit when daytime temperatures are 90 F or higher for several days. Watermelons require 65 to 90 frost-free days to develop completely. Air temperatures under 70 F may damage young watermelon plants, slow their increase and reduce their returns.

Production in Cool Areas

Watermelon plant varieties that mature in over 75 days are alternatives in areas that encounter cool summers. Those varieties require a shorter growing season and are often less rampant than other kinds, making them perfect for home gardens. You may grow watermelon plants utilizing transparent plastic as mulch to keep the soil warm and floating row covers to help protect the plants from cool end. Several early-maturing varieties comprise “Golden Crown,” which creates 6-pound, oval melons in around 60 days, and “New Queen,” which creates 5- to 6-pound fruits with few seeds within 63 days.

Storage Tray

A watermelon is ripe once you thump it and hear a hallow sound, the tendrils darken where the melon attaches to the stem as well as the melon’s underside is pale yellow. Eliminate a watermelon by cutting, instead of pulling, it from the stem. When recovering watermelons, keep them at a place with a temperature of 50 to 60 F and a humidity of approximately 90 percent. Watermelons saved for several days in a temperature below 41 F may suffer chilling injury. Eat watermelons as soon as possible after they’re harvested because they lose color and crispness when stored for long periods.

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Desert rose (Adenium obesum) creates 1-inch-long tropical blossoms in pink, rose or white. In warm climates, U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, the trumpet-shaped flowers bloom all year. This plant reaches up to 5 feet tall using the lower portion of the trunk swelling to half its height. With the ideal care, this plant lives for centuries. This succulent makes an attractive addition to stone landscape.

Temperature

Desert rose plants require warm temperatures year-round. This succulent initially comes from tropical and sub-tropical area of the Middle East and Africa. To survive, the desert rose must be protected from temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Consider growing in a container rather than planting it in the ground in the stone landscape. Put wheels on large plant pots to make it easier to move.

Light

Place the desert climbed in just as much direct sunlight as you can. This plant works well in southern facing areas. This succulent tolerates some afternoon shade in hot areas, but too much shade lowers the amount of blossoms.

Moisture

Desert roses requires dry locations. Too much water causes the roots to decay. Keep the plant dry during the winter while the plant isn’t actively growing. Water once the soil gets completely dry in summer. Don’t plant in areas with standing water or drainage issues.

Soil

The desert rose grows best in a mixture of sand or stone chips and potting soil. Commercial cactus soil mixture works well when growing in containers. In ideal circumstances, create a mound of rubble and cover the soil mixture. This guarantees that the desert rose has plenty of drainage in the stone garden.

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The berries, leaves and flowers of the 200 species of hawthorn trees vary enough to give each a dash of distinction all of its own. Whether you are partial to colour or shape or searching for a specific utilization when designing your landscape, the many varieties of hawthorns provide both diversity and versatility.

Berries

Hawthorn trees bear fruit known as haws that resemble miniature apples or berries, the majority of which are bright red. The black hawthorn (Crataegus douglasii Lindl), also called the Douglas hawthorn, found in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 to 9, create purplish-black fruit. Certain hawthorn trees, such as the dark hawthorn, create fruit no larger than one-half inch, while some others, like the “Autumn Glory” (Crataegus “Autumn Glory”), growing in USDA zones 6 to 9, make fruit between 1 1/2 and 3 inches.

Leaves

Many hawthorn leaves are ovate or oblong with slight variations. The ovate leaves of the English hawthorn (Crataegus laevigata), found in USDA zones 4 to 8, are shallowly lobed. The oblong leaves of the “Carriere” (Crataegus × lavallei “Carrierei”), and also found in zones 4 to 8, are toothed. Some hawthorns, such as the “Autumn Glory” and the Oriental hawthorn (Crataegus pinnitifida), that rises in USDA zones 6 to 10, create pinnate leaves. Meanwhile, the Washington hawthorn (Crataegus phaenopyrum), found in USDA zones 4 to 8, has lobed deltoid leaves. Leaf color ranges from medium to dark green and all of hawthorns produce fall shade before falling. The “Autumn Glory” has dark green leaves which change to orange or red, while the Russian hawthorn (Crataegus ambigua), found in USDA zones 4 to 8, has medium green leaves which does not only turn orange or red, but also gold or mulitcolored.

Flowers

The showy flowers of the hawthorn range from white to pink to rosy red and typically blossom in the spring. The “Autumn Glory” and the Russian hawthorn are one of the ones that produce only white flowers. The English hawthorn variety “Crimson Cloud” (Crataegus laevigata “Crimson Cloud”) produces red or lavender blossoms, while its variety, the “Double Pink” (Crataegus laevigata “Double Pink”) blossoms in pink. Some hawthorns blossom in others seasons as well as spring, such as the Washington hawthorn, which might blossom in the summer, and the “Majestic Beauty” Indian hawthorn (Rhaphiolepis × “Montic”), that blooms in the autumn, spring or winter from USDA zones 7 to 11.

Other Differences

Many hawthorn trees are helpful for screening, but some, like the Chinese, English, “Autumn Glory” and “Carriere” varieties, can also be appropriate for pleaching, or weaving together to make a living archway or wall. Others, such as the “Majestic Beauty” Indian hawthorn and the Washington hawthorn might be pruned into hedges. Hawthorn trees typically like full sun, although some, like the English hawthorn and the “Majestic Beauty,” will tolerate partial shade. Hawthorns generally prefer moist soil, but the Indian and the Washington varieties are exceptionally drought-resistant.

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Cool-weather vegetable crops are a gardener’s best friend, although a lot of individuals are still unfamiliar with them. Many of the vegetables grown in summer gardens really perform better in cooler weather once the average temperature is 50 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit; mild frost can actually enhance a few cool-season crops.

Cool-Season Vegetables

Although most men and women have a tendency to plant their vegetable gardens within mid-spring to get a summer crop, some frequent salad vegetables are quickly destroyed by the warmth of the summer. Cool-weather vegetables contain salad greens, peas and root vegetables. Lettuces, radishes, carrots, rutabaga, beets, turnips and cabbages work well for your cool-weather vegetable garden.

Fall and Winter Harvest

For many, cool-season vegetable gardens are intended for a fall or winter crop. Gentle young seeds or plants are planted in the garden during mid- and late summer and are ready for harvest in fall. When planting cool-season crops during the hottest part of the summer, protect the crops with floating row covers to colour them and shield them from the warmth.

Spring Harvest

Planting cool-season vegetables in late winter will allow you to have a bountiful harvest in mid-spring, right around the time you’d plant a normal vegetable garden. Plant your vegetable transplants or seeds so they’ll reach maturity before daytime highs hit around 60 F. Spring harvest presents a single obstacle: The soil temperature still has to be warm enough for germination. Due to this, you might need to start seeds indoors or use some type of insulation around the plants to keep the temperature of the ground raised marginally.

Benefits

Many of the vegetables that prefer cooler weather will grow in the warmth of summer, but badly. Lettuces, for instance, grow fine during the summer heat, but the heat also makes them bolt to seed more quickly and also the leaves turn bitter. Cooler weather also has more rainfall, fewer insects and fewer grasses.

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For people who have gastrointestinal problems with ordinary cucumbers, the Burpless Tasty Green #26 variety can be an ideal gardening alternative. This hybrid cucumber contains thin skin, very little bitterness and was designed to reduce the probability of the veggie inducing gas. Like most of cucumber varieties, Burpless Tasty Green is a warm-weather plant and needs to be planted after the soil warms up to at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit in your lawn.

Dig the cucumber patch once the soil warms in the lawn, about three weeks after the last average frost date. The date will be different based on the part of the country in which you live. As an example, in San Francisco the last frost date is near the end of January, so start the cucumber patch at the middle of February if the weather holds.

Dig the soil in your cucumber area 12 inches deep. Mix at a 3-inch layer of compost to improve drainage. Insert an all-purpose fertilizer such as 5-10-10 according to the package directions. Create the cucumber patch up against a chain-link fence or a trellis to permit cucumber vines to climb away from damp soil.

Space the Burpless Tasty Green #26 cucumber seeds about 12 to18 inches apart. Place the seeds about 4 inches from the fence or alternative support and then cover the seeds with 1/2 inch of compost. Water the seeds thoroughly.

Spread a 2-inch layer of grass clippings or other organic mulch over the seed bed once the seeds have sprouted. This will keep moisture in the ground while shading out seeming weeds.

Side dress the cucumber crops using a high-nitrogen water-soluble fertilizer once the vines start to bloom, and again three weeks later. Do this by moving apart the mulch, sprinkling the fertilizer on the ground beside the plant stems and watering it into the ground. Replace the mulch after the water has sunk into the ground.

Water the patch often, particularly in very hot or warm weather. Keep the ground moist, but avoid massive puddles.

Decide on the Burpless Tasty Green #26 cucumbers as soon as they are ready to eat — approximately 62 days after planting. These cukes are greatest when they are approximately 8 inches long with a smooth skin. Regular picking will keep the vines creating more cucumbers.

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