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Eliminating Smoke Smell From Ceiling Tiles

Smoke, whether from cooking or cigarettes, tends to travel upward. Indoors, it reaches the ceiling and becomes trapped in porous ceiling tiles, leaving the ceiling smelling like smoke long after the true smoke dissipates. While brushing the ceiling may not be a favorite household chore, it is occasionally necessary to rid the room of odors. Sprays and sprays developed to eliminate as opposed to mask odors get the business finished. Eye protection is a must when working near the ceiling to prevent getting debris or chemicals in your eyes.

The Ability of Peroxide

Peroxide-based cleaners, some featuring citrus oils and surfactants, are designed to both clean slate tiles and eliminate or remove odors such as smoke. Spray the substance over the ground, let the cleaner to soak in for at least 10 minutes, then wipe off using a damp cloth. Repeat the process if necessary. The added benefit of such a cleaner is that the peroxide cuts through the movie left by some kinds of smoke such as tobacco; without such cleaning, the picture could make it hard to paint or prime the ceiling tiles.

Trisodium Phosphate Treatment

Trisodium phosphate is a powerful cleaning agent that eliminates smoke picture, which includes the smoke odor, from ceiling tiles. Mix one tablespoon of TSP in a gallon of warm water, then dip a sponge from the solution whilst wearing gloves. Wipe down the ground with the solution, followed by another sponge dipped in plain water. Do not oversaturate the ceiling; keep the sponges as lightly damp as possible, otherwise the humidity may harm the ceiling tiles. A ceiling fan or a portable fan pointed up in the ground helps dry the tiles quickly.

Vanquish Smoke With Vinegar

Vinegar eliminates odors brought on by smoke. Mix a cup of vinegar to 2 cups of plain water. Wipe the answer above the ceiling, or blend it into a spray bottle and spray the ceiling rather. A tablespoon of baking soda may also be added into this solution, if you like, for extra odor-removing properties. A slightly damp cloth, wiped above the ground tiles after waiting 10 minutes or so, helps eliminate lingering odors and residue. As with other ceiling-cleaning methods, don’t saturate the ceiling tiles, since they are not designed to hold water.

Ozone for Odors

An ozone-generating machine eliminates powerful smoke odors from the ceiling and the room as a whole. All these commercial-strength machines are available as rentals; some versions are quite a little more effective than the tiny units designed to operate continually in a home. Ozone reacts with odors by completely changing their chemical composition, neutralizing them.

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Assist With Clothes That Appear Dirty From an HE Top-Load Washer

HE, or higher efficiency, top-load washers provide the performance of a front-load washing machine, but look like a traditional top-load washer. Since they do not have an agitator, HE top-load washers may wash larger loads with a cleaning performance that is comparable to the majority of front-load models. Should you realize that your clothes aren’t arriving as clean as you anticipate, there may be one of a couple of common causes.

Slow Load Size

In case your top-load washer is not cleaning your clothes properly, it may be because you have selected the wrong load size. Your clothes mush transfer through the water in your washing machine with the right turnover action in order for the soils and soap to be rinsed in the clothes. Normally, a little load is about 2 to 3 pounds, or 1/4 basket complete to get an average-sized laundry basket. Medium loads are usually 4 to 6 pounds, or 1/2 basket complete. The huge atmosphere is for 7 to 10 pounds of clothes, or a complete basket.

Improper Loading

How you load the clothes on your top-load HE washer can impact how clean they come out. Wrapping the things around each other or balling them all together might reduce wash performance, because they can’t transfer around the water openly. If the individual things do not move in and on top of the water, then they can’t turn over, which is necessary to push the water and detergent through the materials. Load each item separately at a loose stack to make sure that it moves freely through the water.

Wrong Temperature Setting

Hot Water is necessary to remove dirt from heavily soiled things, but warm water gets most light soils clean. If you’re using cold water, then select a cold water detergent as well, or your clothes may not appear as clean as they need to. Check the labels of the garments to make sure that you’re using the recommended temperature setting. While cold water is energy-efficient, several kinds of soils can only be eliminated with warm or hot washes. If you’re using a hot or warm atmosphere and the clothes still aren’t coming clean, verify that the fill hoses are connected to the appropriate faucets.

Water or Detergent Issues

At times the water itself may cause your clothes to look dirty after washing. If your garments have a yellowish to orange tint, there may be high levels of iron in your water. This can be fixed by installing an iron filter. If you’ve got hard water, which includes mineral deposits, minerals in the water can mix with soap to form a scum, which causes your laundry to appear dingy and unclean. There are packaged powders accessible to soften your laundry water, or you may put in a whole-home water softener. How you add your detergent may also affect how clean the garments come out. Pouring the detergent on top of the load reduces its cleaning effectiveness, because some clothes get too much detergent, while those below do not get sufficient. Fill the machine and then add soap until you add the laundry.

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How to Paint Stained Oak Wainscoting

Stained oak wainscoting doesn’t suit everyone’s preferences, however applying a few coats of paint above it will lead to a streaky, discolored mess. While classified as a hardwood, oak is also open-grain, meaning it’s visible pores. This gives oak plenty of personality, but also means it does not absorb paint evenly. When you take the time to prepare your wainscoting carefully, you make certain that if you do visit paint it, then you are going to end up with a smooth, professional finish.

Tape round the wainscoting with painter’s tape. Put plastic sheeting on the ground and secure it just beneath the bottom trim. Open doors and windows if possible to maintain good ventilation.

Mix a couple of tablespoons of mild detergent in a bucket of warm water. Wash the wainscoting, removing some grease or dust, then rinse with a clean rag. Don’t oversaturate the wood. Permit the wainscoting dry completely.

Brush a liquid deglosser on a small section of the wainscoting and then wipe away the excess with a clean rag. Work your way throughout the wall. Always follow manufacturer instructions with regard to how long to let the deglosser sit; however, don’t let the product dry on the wall. Working in tiny sections allows you to control just how long the product has to get the job done. If the oak is not overly shiny, skip this step.

Sand in the direction of the grain with a 100-grit sanding block. Going against the grain tears the wood, leading to an uneven paint job. While a sanding machine could be tempting, they are not as successful as hand sanding on oak. When you’re done, then vacuum up the dust on the wainscoting and ground. Use tack cloths to get into any hard-to-reach places or to get a last wipe-down. This prevents dust from getting stuck in the merchandise you apply later.

Apply clear, water-based grain filler to the wainscoting, sealing the pores of the pine. Working in tiny sections, brush to the product against the grain first and then with the grain to get the last pass. Wipe away the excess with a lint-free rag when indicated from the producer. Specific application excels by producers, so always follow the instructions on the grain filler packaging.

Sand the wainscoting lightly with 180-grit sandpaper after the filler has cured in accordance with the manufacturer instructions, typically overnight. Even if the grain binder says that it is self-leveling, a light sanding is essential to get a smooth finish. Vacuum the wainscoting down to remove dust.

Inspect the wainscoting. In case any nail holes are visible, then fill them with wood filler or paintable caulk. Let the merchandise dry, lightly sand it level with the surrounding region and wipe down the area with a tack cloth.

Implement stain-blocking, water-based primer to conceal the stain color and prep the wainscoting. If you’re going from a very dark stain to a mild paint color, have your paint specialist tint the primer to coordinate with your desired paint color. Let the primer dry completely. If the oak wainscoting color is still quite visible, apply a second coat and let it dry.

Apply two to three thin coats of a paint color of your own choice. Let each coat dry before you apply the next one. This prevents peeling and bubbles, giving you the smoothest finish. Eliminate the painter’s tape and then drop cloths directly after you apply the previous coat.

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How to Clean A metallic Lamp

A metal lamp is exactly like every accessory in a house; it has to be cleaned regularly so as to look its very best. Unless it’s treated with a protective layer, a metal lamp will even tarnish when exposed to atmosphere with time. Cleaning, polishing and protecting your lamp is easy as soon as you develop a routine.

Gunk and Grime

Regardless of whether your metal lamp is constructed from brass, nickel, steel, bronze or copper, the initial cleaning is comparable. Wipe down the metal portions of the lamp with warm, soapy water and a soft cloth. If done consistently, at least once every fourteen days, this helps avoid a buildup of soil, grime and indoor pollutants that collect and cause larger problems. For extremely dirty lamps, rub lightly with additional fine 0000-grade steel wool to loosen the accumulation, using a medium-bristle toothbrush to reach tough spots.

Tarnished Reputation

Utilize metal polishing cleaner to tackle deeply tarnished lamps. Liquid polishes for brass and copper are specially formulated for the unique qualities of each alloy. Follow manufacturer directions, which usually involves coating the metal with the polish, letting it dry, then hardened and buffing with a clean, soft cloth. If you find an accumulation of polish in any crevices, then rinse it off with warm water, then dry thoroughly.

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How to Make a Lawnmower Bagger Zipper Work Better

Although a bagging lawnmower is a handy piece of equipment to get, a sticky or malfunctioning zipper can make emptying the bag hard. That is when mowing suddenly becomes more of a pain than a pleasure. Over time, dust and other debris may accumulate in the teeth of the zipper, and exposure to the elements may cause the zipper to stick. Instead of replacing the bagger, you may simply take care of the zipper in a way that returns it to full functionality.

Scrub the teeth of the zipper aggressively using a scrub brush to remove dirt and other debris. Brush the zipper from the two of its sides and in the two directions to remove particles inside and outside the bag. Shake out the bag to disperse all of remaining grit.

Spritz the teeth of the zipper lightly with a spray-on penetrating oil which also includes lubricant and water repellant. In addition to allowing the pull tab of the zipper to move freely, the application will safeguard the teeth of the zipper from moisture and protect against corrosion of metal parts.

Wipe all excess penetrating oil from the teeth of the zipper with a paper towel. Surplus oil on the zipper may transfer to your hands, making them slippery and cause unsafe operating conditions when you use the mower.

Repeat these jobs at the first symptom of a sticky zipper on the lawnmower bagger.

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How to Touch Up Particle Board Trim to Paint a Dresser

Examine the ground of a lumber mill and you will see just what particle board is made of: sawdust, wood chips and shavings, all held together with adhesive and formed into panels to create furniture. Although sturdy and cost-effective, particle board furniture is often more tedious to repair than solid wood; once it cracks, the sawdust and shavings crumble. This is especially true in regards to trim bits, which tend to break easily. With some patience and superior wood filler, you can fix the particle board trim on your dresser before you refinish it with paint — and in the long run, it’ll look fresh.

Inspect the damage to find out if any bigger pieces could be reattached to the dresser. Clean out the portion of the dresser where the bit attaches with a vacuum and damp cloth, then allow it to dry.

Take two pieces of scrap timber, at least provided that the broken bit of trim on the dresser, and cover one side of every piece with vinyl tape. Apply a small bit of wood glue to the broken bit of trim and then reattach it to the dresser. Set the scrap bits, together with the taped sides right on the dresser’s trim, on both sides of the patch (as applicable), then use clamps to hold the bits in place till the adhesive dries. The scrap timber creates enough pressure to get a tight seal and ensures the trim is reattached straight, while the tape on the scrap timber keeps the wood adhesive from sticking to it.

Use a stiff brush to remove any loose particles. Then vacuum the region thoroughly. This will guarantee the wood filler seals properly together with the dresser, giving you the smoothest and most durable repair.

Mix wood filler, according to the package directions, in a small dish or pan. Starting from the center of the damage, put on the filler to the dresser with a putty knife. Apply the product a little higher than the surface of the dresser to account for the natural shrinkage which takes place when filler dries. Let it dry.

Apply masking tape around the patch, only on the outside, to safeguard the surrounding particle board. Although you’ll be painting the whole dresser, scuffing up the end of the undamaged timber can cause variations in paint texture. Masking allows you to sand the filler smooth without roughening up the smooth end of the remainder of the timber.

Sand the patch with medium grit sandpaper so that it is flush with the surface of the dresser. If the filler shrunk down so that it no longer suits the damaged region, apply another coat; let this dry, then sand it.

Sand the region lightly with fine sandpaper to smooth it out, and wipe everything down with a moist cloth. Remove the masking tape. Then paint the dresser just as planned.

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The way to Remove 1920's Linoleum

Linoleum is a soft, flexible floor covering that has been produced and installed starting in the 1800s. Through the 1920s, this was a very popular floor covering since it was durable, low maintenance and could be cut into different shapes and patterns for setup. The glue used during the 1920s has a inclination to get stronger over time, instead of poorer. This may signify that based on where the linoleum was installed, it could be rather hard to eliminate.

Check the Material and the Substrate

Before starting to remove old linoleum, you first need to ascertain whether or not it contains asbestos, and onto what it’s installed. Asbestos was used during the 1920s, especially to generate dark-colored linoleum. It also was used in the glue. If your linoleum is black, burgundy or another dark colour, measures 9- or 13-inches square or contains a black, tar-like glue, then do not try to remove it. Call a professional to have it analyzed for asbestos. If you decide that your linoleum doesn’t have asbestos, then pry up a corner to look at the subfloor. Linoleum may happen to be installed over concrete, a wooden subfloor or hardwood. Removal will fluctuate, based on the subfloor.

Heat Removal

If your linoleum is installed over concrete — or in some instances, hardwood — it can be removed by softening the adhesive using a heat gun or hot water. Cut the linoleum into smaller sections to make it easier to eliminate. Peel back the top layer with a floor scraper and heat the adhesive under it using a heat gun, using a towel filled with boiling hot water or use a wallpaper steamer. Once the glue softens, scrape it off with the floor scraper and continue on to the next part.

Wooden Subfloor Removal

Linoleum installed wood is quite tricky to get away because the glue deposits so extensively to the timber. If the linoleum is on a wooden subfloor, it can be more easily removed by taking out the whole subfloor along with the linoleum, then placing in a new subfloor. Cut the linoleum, using a circular saw with the blade set to 1/8-inch deeper than the width of the subfloor. Ensure to decrease the linoleum and subfloor into sections, then simply remove each part. A new subfloor can be installed on the floor joists that can handle whatever new material you intend to install.

Use a Linoleum Floor Stripper

Floor strippers are electric tools that get beneath the flooring they are intended to eliminate and vibrate or agitate until the flooring comes up. A few floor strippers are intended only for linoleum. They can be handheld or big enough to ride on, and several can be leased from home improvement centres. Scrape up one or two rows of linoleum using the floor scraper and heat gun to make a beginning point for your stripper. Get the stripper beneath the linoleum permit it to pull up the linoleum and glue. Any remaining glue can be heated and scraped away, using a floor scraper.

Safe Removal

If you’re unsure if your linoleum tiles contain asbestos and you cannot get a professional test to tell for certain, you need to take more precautions when removing them. The asbestos fibers become a problem when they’re airborne; not cut, mud or break the tiles or the glue when removing them. This could release the asbestos dust to the atmosphere. Verify the room has great ventilation when working, and put on a dust mask as you operate. Use hot water to loosen the shingles and soften any dust dust to keep it from escaping into the atmosphere. Gently pry up and remove the tiles one at a time, disposing of them in plastic bags with high tensile strength to maintain the bags from ripping. Contact your city to get information on disposing of the shingles as they can be considered hazardous waste.

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How to Remove a Painted Stomp Textured Ceiling

If you’ve got a stomp texture on your ceiling, then whoever created it did so by spreading a coat of drywall joint compound and utilizing a stomp brush to make the texture. If the ceiling is painted white, drywall finishers sometimes leave texture unpainted, and if they do, you can remove it from scrape and wetting it. When the texture has a coat of paint, however, you normally have to sand the texture off since the paint seals out the water. Another method that does not increase as much unhealthy dust may work on your ceiling, tough.

Cover the floor with plastic sheeting, and hang plastic from the doorways. Wear a dust mask, goggles and protective clothing. Taking away the texture is going to make a mess regardless of whether you have to sand it off.

Scrape the ceiling using a hard-bristle push broom. If there are just a couple of coats of paint, then the broom should have the ability to earn large enough scrape marks to permit water to penetrate into the texture material.

Fill a garden sprayer with water, pump it up and spray the ceiling thoroughly. Give the water 20 minutes to penetrate and soften the texture.

Scrape off the softened texture using a drywall knife. Maintaining a bucket under the knife as you scrape will prevent the texture from dropping around the plastic and potentially getting on the carpet, but it may be tricky to do while standing on a stepladder. If so, enlist a helper to hold the bucket for you.

Let the ceiling dry after you’ve scraped off the bulk of the texture, then sand off the deposits with a pole sander and 120-grit sandpaper.

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The way to Lacquer a Dresser

Natural lacquer finish looks great on almost any wooden product. Dressers are particular handsome when finished this way since it adds a clean, bright ambiance to your dresser. It is perfect for blankets, blankets or any item that you just want clean and protected. Lacquer is one of the very user-friendly finishes available. It dries fast and sets down a smooth glassy finish with no struggle. If you are on a budget and can’t afford to rent or buy expensive spray equipment, you can find the same results with aerosol lacquer in a can.

Remove the drawers from the dresser. Place them across two sawhorses.

Sand the dresser and all the drawers by hand with a rolled piece of 180-grit sandpaper. Sand parallel to the grain just. This is to remove any loose fibers and mild scratches from the dresser.

Wash the sanding dust from the drier and drier having a soft brush.

Hold the can of aerosol lacquer 8 inches from the surface of the dresser. Tilt the can to your 15-degree angle. Starting in the bottom, spray on a continuous wet band of lacquer up the face of the dresser. Immediately spray a down band, overlapping the first ring by 1 inch. Continue upon the side, overlapping the bands before the side is uniformly wet with lacquer.

Spray the opposite side next, then the front and spray on the top last. It’s alright if the spray goes within the dresser once you spray the front. Should you feel that some of the flat pieces on the front didn’t get covered satisfactorily, it is okay to spray over them.

Spray the drawers indoors and out using an even coat about everything. Wait 30 minutes to the lacquer to dry.

Sand everything gently with a folded piece of 180-grit sandpaper. This is to remove any rough lacquer particles which settle on the finish before it is dry. Also called overspray, it is unavoidable on the first coat but nothing to be concerned about. After the surface of the drier and drier feel slick and smooth to the touch, you are done.

Wipe the nice white lacquer dust from the surface of the timber with a soft fabric. Spray everything just as you did prior to finish the job. Wait 24 hours before putting back the drawers back in.

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