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The way to Troubleshoot Magnolia Tree Leaves Turning Yellow

Magnolias (genus Magnolia) are a family of flowering trees and shrubs which are among the first to bloom each spring. Hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, magnolias open their huge, distinctive, saucer-like flowers prior to their leaves grass. These trees make striking ornamentals but also are sensitive to change, so monitor your magnolia carefully for signs of infection or injury.

Consider seasonal shift. Deciduous species of magnolias naturally change colour and lose their leaves in the autumn, and might occasionally start this process early when there’s a sudden drop in temperature. Magnolias also shed a small number of leaves naturally during the year, as older leaves eventually become worn and are replaced with fresh growth. In case a few person leaves are yellowing, with no sign of spread throughout a larger area of the tree, there’s ordinarily no need for worry.

Assess recent weather conditions. If there has been a sudden frost, a heat wave or a lengthy period of drought, then the magnolia leaves might be turning yellow due to weather damage. Though mature magnolias do not ordinarily need hand-watering, they should be watered during periods of low rainfall to help reduce wilting leaves. Make sure that the soil around your magnolia is well irrigated, as poor drainage can also bring about leaf discoloration.

Check your tree for signs of harm. Splits or cracks in the tree’s bark can lead to infection and make the tree more vulnerable to changing weather conditions. Prune back any snapped or dangling branches to the collar of the branch, making clean, diagonal cuts to encourage rapid healing.

Examine your soil using a soil test kit purchased from a nursery or garden center. Leaf discoloration can occasionally result from nutrient deficiencies or chemical imbalances in the ground. Iron deficiency is a frequent cause of yellowing leaves in magnolias. If your land has a high pH level, making iron less available, reduce the soil alkalinity using peat moss or another organic fertilizer.

Discontinue use of deicing solutions or other goods containing salt which may leach into the soil around your magnolia tree. High salt levels can inhibit the tree’s ability to take in water, resulting in yellow and wilting leaves.

Prevent problems before they start by supplying your magnolia tree great care during the season. Make sure that your tree contains affluent, well-drained soil and plenty of sun. Mulch around the base of the magnolia each spring to help keep moisture and keep down weeds. Avoiding heavy pruning, whenever possible, since pruning causes the tree more vulnerable to injury and infection.

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Asparagus Bean Plant Problems

Also known as yardlong bean, asparagus bean (Vigna unguiculata subsp. Sesquipedalis (L.) Verde) is distinguished by the edible bean pods that frequently reach lengths of up to 36 inches. The plant, which grows to 9 to 12 feet, is also planted for its ornamental qualities and violet flowers. Asparagus bean is at precisely the same plant family as the black-eyed pea. Although the plant is a legume, it is not related to snap beans or pole beans.

Bacterial Blight

Halo bacterial blight (Pseudomonas syringae pathovar phaseolicola), shows up as wilted foliage and brownish spots that appear on the leaves and pods. The blight is readily recognized because every brown spot is surrounded by a distinct yellow halo. Halo blight often occurs as a consequence of damp, cool weather, as asparagus beans need warm, well-drained soil. Treat affected beans with a copper-based fungicide. To prevent halo bacterial blight, avoid using sprinklers. Instead, keep the foliage dry by watering in the base of the plant. Alternate planting locations at least once every three decades, as the blight stays in the soil for two decades.

Root Rot

Root rots are brought on by fungi that live in the soil. When asparagus beans have been implanted in affected soil, the beans frequently fail to germinate. If they do emerge, then the leaves turn yellow and the plant finally rots and dies. The primary rots affecting asparagus beans are Fusarium root rot (Fusarium solani) and Rhizoctonia root rot (Rhizoctonia solani). Both produce mushy, rotted stems and yellow, withered leaves, as well as red spots at the base of the stems, or on the stem just below the soil. To prevent root rot, find a new spot to plant the seeds following year, as the fungi can dwell in the soil as long as six decades. Keep the region around the plants clean and remove infected leaves. Plant asparagus beans at well-drained soil or raised beds.

Fungal Diseases

Asparagus beans are vulnerable to many fungal diseases in addition to root rots. Fungal diseases include white mold (Sclerotinia sclerotioru), suggested by a fuzzy white material that develops on the stalks, leaves and pods. Likewise powdery mildew isn’t difficult to spot from the white, powdery coating on the leaves and pods. Sometimes, a strong stream of water directed at the affected region removes mould and powdery mildew. Some types of fungal disorder cause dark spots on the leaves similar to halo blight, but without the yellow halo. To manage bacterial disorders, prune and dispose of affected regions. Make sure the plants are not crowded, as asparagus beans requires air circulation. You might need to use commercial fungicides if the disease is severe.

Aphids and Spider Mites

While asparagus beans are affected by various pests, most are nuisances that cause little harm. Aphids and spider mites can cause damage to the plant if left untreated. Spider mites are tiny and difficult to see, but they abandon a fine webbing on the undersides of the leaves. The leaves of a badly infested plant might look scorched. Spider mites frequently appear on plants that are not adequately watered, as the insects like dry, dusty conditions. Aphids are tiny bugs, but they are sometimes seen on the undersides or joints of leaves. Aphids suck the sap from the leaves, leaving a sweet material that frequently develops black sooty mould. Light infestations of aphids and spider mites are sometimes removed with a strong stream of water. Treat heavier infestations with insecticidal soap spray.

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The way to Expand Snails to Your Pond

Aquatic snails add a fantastic deal to your backyard pond health and water quality. Oddly attractive, snails function as nutrient recyclers that encourage clear water. They perform highly supportive functions in populating brand new and established aquatic ecosystems with beneficial bacteria. Snails have traditionally been somewhat overrated as top-notch pond scavengers. While they eat their fair share of algae, decaying leaves, and rotting leftover fish food, they do not eat fish waste, blue-green brown or algae pond scum. The secret to introducing snails for your pond lies in selecting varieties that complement the ecosystem.

Evaluate your garden pond’s features to determine which variety and the number of snails will work nicely for you. Take into account your winter climate and the size of your pond. Water gardeners cherish their own water garden plants, which most snails devour with relish. Nearly all pond snails are hermaphroditic (both female and male, self-fertilizing), a particularly unappealing trait which allows them to breed prolifically in will and overrun a pond very quickly.

Select Japanese black trapdoor snails (Viviparis malleatus) in climates with harsh winters. Also acceptable for warm areas, Japanese trapdoor is the only freshwater snail species which doesn’t eat live pond plants. These snails are not quite prolific, require both female and male to reproduce, and breed just twice annually. They do not litter the pond with eggs as they bear a few live young every year. A couple of members of this mystery (Ampullaria) and ramshorn (Planorbidae) snail groups are not as destructive to plants as several other snails, however they breed and reproduce so prolifically that they are frequently regarded more as pests than creatures.

Purchase snails from reputable suppliers. A good guideline for deciding the number of snails to buy is no more than 1 animal for approximately every square foot of pond floor surface area.

Float the clear plastic bag of snails in the pond water for approximately ten minutes to permit them to slowly acclimate to the temperature. Open the bag and fill it halfway with water. Close the bag and let it float for another 10 minutes as the snails adapt to this change in water composition. Dump the snails to the shallowest portion of this pond. Snails lock themselves up in their shells when angry or afraid, so that they may appear lifeless or lifeless. They’ll soon begin poking their way across the pond floor.

Put a large lettuce leaf to the bottom of the pond and then weigh it down with a stone if you have not seen your snails within several days of releasing them. This is typical of this mollusks, which are hard to see because they mix in with stones, the pond floor. Return in two or three hours and scoop out the lettuce leaf. It ought to be covered with aquatic snails.

Supply your pond snails with a supply of calcium for shell health in case your water pH is below 7.0. Calcium deficiencies cause shells to eventually become pitted and thin, and are detrimental to their general well-being. These deficiencies do not occur in difficult water conditions. Pet and pond provide retailers offer appropriate calcium supplemental materials including dolomite, limestone and coralline stones and gravels. Granular calcium carbonate functions nicely, also. Follow the packaging instructions for amounts and frequency of use.

Feed your snails regularly if you are not feeding any fish which are leaving uneaten food supporting. While snails eat plenty of algae, the plant doesn’t constitute a nutritionally complete diet for them. Offer a large lettuce leaf or 1/4-inch piece of raw zucchini once or twice weekly. Weigh the veggie down with a stone. Contrary to many traditionally held beliefs, snails aren’t pooper-scoopers and will not absorb the waste products of other river residents. In the absence of adequate food, almost all of snail species may turn to eating crops, alternative snails and even little fish to survive.

Maintain your water amount as low as you can if you maintain large aquatic snails. A number of them are very adept at escaping the pond, especially at nighttime. Toss stranded snails back into the water once you locate them, even if they appear lifeless and all dried up. They’re fairly likely to survive.

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When to Prune Little Richard Abelia

“Little Richard” abelia (Abelia x grandiflora “Little Richard”), hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 6 through 9, is a compact shrub with shiny green leaves and attractive white blossoms that appear in late spring or early summer. With or without routine pruning, this plant only grows to a maximum size of about 3 feet, making it a smart shrub for smaller spaces.

When To Prune

In moderate climates, like USDA zones 8 through 9, “Little Richard” will overwinter with minimal, if any, damage. Pruning done in the end of winter and the beginning of the spring will enable you to shape your plant while you eliminate some damaged, diseased or dead branches. If pruning in early spring, then do so before the onset of new growth. “Little Richard” shrubs are well-known for their fast growing addiction. Whatever is lost during moderate pruning will be regained throughout the growing season.

Rejuvination Pruning

“Little Richard” reacts well to severe pruning. Older bushes with twiggy growth or bare spots can benefit from this kind of pruning. Some gardeners cut their “Little Richard” into the bottom biennially to keep a lush, full shrub. You can perform this type of pruning by cutting down the main stem of the shrub to about 6 inches tall. As with other kinds of pruning, this must be completed in late winter or early spring, before the onset of new growth.

Pruning Tips

Sanitize your pruning tools before you use them to protect against the spread of diseases. An easy-to-make sanitizing solution combines 1 part bleach with 3 parts water. Wash the tools in the process for five minutes and then rinse them before use. For moderate pruning, you ought to examine the abelia and decide which components need to be eliminated and which components can remain. Dead, dry and leafless limbs should be your primary focus. If shaping your bush, decide beforehand how tall you wish your bush to be, and exactly what shape you wish it to take. Severe pruning is easier. After discovering the principal stem or stem, chop the tree off in the foundation, leaving approximately 6 inches of stem over the surface of the soil.

Applications

For moderate pruning, hand pruners are inclined to be all you may need. These tools can cut branches up to 3/4 inch thick. For severe pruning, in most cases the best tools to use are lopping shears. Lopping shears can cut stems up to 1 3/4 inches thick. If trying to decide between bypass pruners and anvil pruners, bypass pruners are often less damaging to the plant. Any stems larger than 2 inches in diameter might call for a fine-toothed saw.

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How to Replace Furnace Belts

Modern furnaces that depend on heat though a series of ducts and air ports to spread heat throughout the house have a powered air compressor that’s powered by an external motor. Generally, this type of fan is called a squirrel cage due to its uncanny similarity to an exercise wheel in a cage. If the belt between the motor and the blower breaks, it can be replaced with a brand new belt in about 15 minutes with some basic hand tools.

Switch off the circuit breaker to the furnace. Confirm the power to the furnace is off by setting the thermostat’s fan setting in the house to the On position, and check to see that the fan engine did not come on.

Remove the front access panel of the furnace by removing the screws that mount the panel to the unit using a screwdriver. Lift the panel off of the unit and set it aside.

Loosen the two mounting bolts securing the engine to the furnace using a socket set. Then push the engine toward the compressor marginally, and remove the damaged belt.

Put a new blower belt above the blower pulley, then above the engine pulley. Pull the motor with one hand, applying tension to the belt, and tighten the two mounting bolts to the motor’s base.

Check the tension of the belt by pushing on the belt between the two pulleys. With proper tension, the belt should deflect approximately half an inch. If the belt is either too loose or too tight, loosen the motor mounting bolts and adjust the stress before tightening the bolts once more.

Replace the access panel and tighten the mounting screws. Then turn the breaker, and analyze the operation of the blower.

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How Much Cold Can Watermelon Plants Take?

Watermelons require warm weather and a long growing season to come up with their sweet, juicy flesh. Most watermelon production takes place in the South, but home gardeners all over the United States can grow watermelons. Growing watermelons successfully requires enough space to them and well-drained soil amended with compost or manure. These melons also require hot summers with cold conditions, but growers in the North can also produce watermelons by planting early-maturing varieties.

Cold Temperatures

Because watermelons have been warm-season crops, they cannot withstand a freeze or even a light frost. A air temperature of 33 degrees Fahrenheit or under kills watermelons. The best time to sow watermelon seeds or set out watermelon transplants is just two to three weeks after the last spring frost date. Start watermelon seeds indoors six weeks before spring’s final average frost date. The seeds will germinate in 10 days once the soil temperature is 65 F, but they germinate best when the soil temperature is 95 F.

Ideal Temperatures

Extremes in temperatures may influence watermelon growth and development. The finest daytime air temperature for growing watermelons is from 70 to 90 F. Watermelons grown where nighttime temperatures drop below 50 F drop flavor. The plants frequently drop flowers and don’t set fruit when daytime temperatures are 90 F or higher for several days. Watermelons require 65 to 90 frost-free days to develop completely. Air temperatures under 70 F may damage young watermelon plants, slow their increase and reduce their returns.

Production in Cool Areas

Watermelon plant varieties that mature in over 75 days are alternatives in areas that encounter cool summers. Those varieties require a shorter growing season and are often less rampant than other kinds, making them perfect for home gardens. You may grow watermelon plants utilizing transparent plastic as mulch to keep the soil warm and floating row covers to help protect the plants from cool end. Several early-maturing varieties comprise “Golden Crown,” which creates 6-pound, oval melons in around 60 days, and “New Queen,” which creates 5- to 6-pound fruits with few seeds within 63 days.

Storage Tray

A watermelon is ripe once you thump it and hear a hallow sound, the tendrils darken where the melon attaches to the stem as well as the melon’s underside is pale yellow. Eliminate a watermelon by cutting, instead of pulling, it from the stem. When recovering watermelons, keep them at a place with a temperature of 50 to 60 F and a humidity of approximately 90 percent. Watermelons saved for several days in a temperature below 41 F may suffer chilling injury. Eat watermelons as soon as possible after they’re harvested because they lose color and crispness when stored for long periods.

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Desert Rose Rock Landscaping

Desert rose (Adenium obesum) creates 1-inch-long tropical blossoms in pink, rose or white. In warm climates, U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, the trumpet-shaped flowers bloom all year. This plant reaches up to 5 feet tall using the lower portion of the trunk swelling to half its height. With the ideal care, this plant lives for centuries. This succulent makes an attractive addition to stone landscape.

Temperature

Desert rose plants require warm temperatures year-round. This succulent initially comes from tropical and sub-tropical area of the Middle East and Africa. To survive, the desert rose must be protected from temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Consider growing in a container rather than planting it in the ground in the stone landscape. Put wheels on large plant pots to make it easier to move.

Light

Place the desert climbed in just as much direct sunlight as you can. This plant works well in southern facing areas. This succulent tolerates some afternoon shade in hot areas, but too much shade lowers the amount of blossoms.

Moisture

Desert roses requires dry locations. Too much water causes the roots to decay. Keep the plant dry during the winter while the plant isn’t actively growing. Water once the soil gets completely dry in summer. Don’t plant in areas with standing water or drainage issues.

Soil

The desert rose grows best in a mixture of sand or stone chips and potting soil. Commercial cactus soil mixture works well when growing in containers. In ideal circumstances, create a mound of rubble and cover the soil mixture. This guarantees that the desert rose has plenty of drainage in the stone garden.

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Bumps on Tomato Plants

Tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) are among the most favored vegetables among home gardeners, the flavor of their luscious fruit unmatched by commercially manufactured varieties. Tomatoes are usually hardy, but sometimes develop unusual bumps along their stems. These bumps may simply be an environmental response, but other times that they indicate the presence of a critical pathogen.

Root Initials

Tomatoes are unique among vegetables they easily develop roots along the length of their stems. Immature roots that appear as pale bumps form when humidity or soil moisture is high. These root initials are no reason for alarm when they form close to the soil’s surface and the soil is draining properly and the plant shows no other signs of infection. However, if root initials develop higher on the stem or the plant is wilting and showing signs of failure, your soil may be retaining excess moisture or you simply may be overwatering your strawberries.

Tomato Psyllids

Tomato psyllids (Bactericera cockerelli) are common pests in the garden. All these 1/10-inch-long, cicada-like insects are dark in colour, with white or yellow markings on their thorax. Nymphs have oval-shaped, flattened yellow-green to orange bodies that resemble scale insects. It requires just two to three weeks from hatching for these bump-like nymphs, which might cover affected tomato crops, to emerge as adults. Employ spinosad, abamectin or spiromesifen to infested plants, following label directions.

Bacterial Canker

Bacterial canker in tomatoes is caused by the pathogen Clavibacter michiganensis pv. michiganensis. It infects crops of most ages, but does not generally cause the formation of cankers except in adult plants. Indicators of bacterial canker include curling, yellowing or wilted leaves that eventually brown and collapse; as the disease progresses, the stem pith yellows, turns red or hollows out. Very serious infections may produce cankers on the plant’s nodes. There is no cure for this disease, but destroying plant materials whenever feasible and practicing crop rotation will help to minimize difficulties in gardens.

Alternaria Stem Canker

Alternaria stem canker (Alternaria alternata f. sp. Lycopersici) is an aggressive fungal canker that could influence stems, leaves or fruit. Dark black or brown cankers may form close to the soil line and continue to enlarge, eventually girdling the stem. This fungus persists in infected plant debris, with spores germinating most rapidly in the presence of water at a temperature around 77 degrees Fahrenheit. There is no cure for this fungus, but a variety of tomatoes resistant to alternaria stem canker are available to the home gardener, such as “Beefmaster Hybrid,” “Celebrity Hybrid,” “Floramerica Hybrid,” “Jackpot Hybrid,” “Lemon Boy Hybrid” and “Roma.”

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What's Better: Foam or Siliconized Mattress Toppers?

The type of mattress topper that is best for you depends on any chemical sensitivities you might have, as some silicone and foam toppers might have a chemical smell. Foam toppers contain petrochemicals, while silicone can also be a chemical sandwiched somewhere between synthetic rubber and plastic polymer. But if you have allergies to natural fibers or masks, both can offer you exactly what you need.

Memory Foam Toppers

For comfort, support and depth options, memory foam mattress toppers rate high among consumers in Sleep Like the Dead’s customer survey site. In regards to cost, lifespan and ease of usage, these mattress toppers ranked lower than other mattress toppers — and they are reportedly hot. Foam mattress toppers come in varying uniform heights such as 2-inch, 3-inch, 4-inch or greater. The topper basically produces a footprint atop your bed usually the same size as the mattress.

Silicone Mattress Toppers

Straight silicone mattress toppers are configured differently than foam mattress toppers are. Similar to feather toppers, the silicone is sandwiched at a quilted bag. This type of mattress topper does not offer the same uniform height for a foam mattress topper 41because the material can move around within the quilted bag. These toppers are usually much less consistently heavy as foam toppers are — running about 3 inches of silicone.

Gel-Covered Memory Foam

An alternative to a comprehensive polyurethane foam along with a silicone mattress topper is one that is made from both. A gel-like covering — composed of a type of synthetic rubber and vinyl — combines the best of two worlds at the first layers of a polyurethane foam topper. The gel pad atop the polyurethane foam allows the mattress to be much cooler complete beneath the body when sleeping, among the major complaints regarding an foam topper.

Alternative Choices

A natural alternative to polyurethane or siliconized mattress toppers includes 100 percent organic latex toppers, down or wool. For those with allergies, an alternative to these organic products includes fiber toppers made from polyester fiber fill or down alternative puffball-type fibers. These kinds of toppers are far more like thick mattress pads as opposed to full scale toppers, and are a lot more inexpensive in comparison to silicone or foam.

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How to Decorate Around a Mounted TV

Wall-mounted apartment screen TVs have turned into a frequent sight in homes of all styles. However, as soon as the TV is in position, it may develop a design dilemma when you are not certain of how to fill in the empty wall area surrounding it. Fortunately, there are many choices to integrate a mounted TV to your well-designed room.

Create a Gallery Wall

Among the hottest decorating trends is that the gallery, a space filled with framed art, photographs, mirrors and other kinds of wall décor. The design can be symmetrical or asymmetrical, based on your taste. The TV ought to be centered in a symmetrical layout. Black-and-white photographs with identical frames and mats make an impressive screen and add a touch of formality to the chamber. An asymmetrical display provides more flexibility but requires more planning. Put your framed art on the floor and cut a piece of craft paper roughly the size of the TV. Play around with different arrangements until you discover one you like best. Snap a photo with your phone to refer back to if hanging the art on the wall.

Cabinetry and Shelves

Provide an integrated try to find your wall-mounted TV by installing custom cabinetry. Include shelves or cubbies that go over the TV and change the size of their individual units. Another option is to flank the TV on each side with floor-to-ceiling shelves or bookcases and hang a large piece of artwork over the TV. You may also place a console table below the TV along with also a tall table lamp on the table to get a feeling of size and depth. Or install floating shelves on one side of this TV and hang framed art on the other. Stagger floating shelves across the TV to get a clean, contemporary look.

Combine Female Elements

Utilize a combination of furnishings, wall shelving and art to fill in space around a wall-mounted TV. Place a big bookcase, china cabinet or armoire on one side of this TV. Include a console table off-centered under the TV and hang artwork or put in shelving on the other side. Otherwise, place an indoor tree on a narrow wall by the TV and hang artwork over and on the opposite side. Put in a few shelves or include a very long, low profile bookcase below the TV to display your collectibles.

Other Ideas

Use your imagination to create a custom search for your TV wall. Think about adding one long wall shelf under the TV along with a slightly shorter shelf above the TV. Place two extra-tall candle holders around the lower shelf to create two vertical lines on either side of the TV, or put in 2 wall-sconce candle holders. Display art glass and also books on the top shelf and also bigger decorative items on the bottom, like urns or pottery. Create a rustic look on the wall by flanking the TV with old shutters and putting a distressed dresser under. Whether your style is ultra-modern, traditional or shabby chic, surround a wall-mounted TV with style for a flawless fit.

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