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Remington Electric Mower Comparisons

Section of the MTD umbrella, Remington sells mowers which range from classic manual styles to electric, cordless versions. As of January 2014, the organization’s lineup of mowers includes RM212A the Remington RM202A and RM212B. While these yard tools offer mowing capabilities and electricity, they vary in their electricity sources and attributes, not to mention their price tags.

A Little Push

In the entry level, the Remington RM202A 2-in-1 Electric Push Mower runs on a engine. This mower is based on a power cord and includes a 19-inch cutting deck, 7-inch brakes and single-lever, six-position height adjustment, reaching heights between 1.25 and 3.5 inches. It sparks grass debris via a mulching side discharge.

Sticking with all the Cord

Like the Remington RM202A, the RM212A 3-in-1 Electric Push Mower requires a cord for power. It retains the specs in areas including deck height, deck size, height adjustment, engine and mulching capabilities. But this midrange version adds a rear bag. It upgrades the brakes to eight inches, so providing just a lot of lift, useful for slightly bumpier yards to the mower.

Breaking Free

On peak of the pile, Remington Electric Battery Push Mower distinguishes itself from the RM202A and the RM212A using its battery, making for cordless operation. Besides this factor, the specs of the RM212B remain equal to its cousin, including a 19-inch cutting deck, height adjuster, rear mulching tote and raised wheels.

A Personal Decision

Your selection of mower boils right down to the requirements of your yard, your preferences and your budget. These cordless and corded electric mowers cater to little – or medium-sized lawns, ideally under 1/3 of an acre in size. As of January 2014, the Remington RM202A provides the choice, at a price of $169. The RM212A mulching tote and tires come at little cost, as this version retails for $199. The RM212B’s operation , however, will make the biggest dent in your checkbook. Each weapon comprises a limited warranty when purchased new.

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Types of HVAC Units

HVAC — heating, ventilation and air conditioning — symbolizes the technology and science of heat air and spreading it through a construction effectively. HVAC professionals at the residential marketplace specialize in the sale and service of furnaces, ac units and fan ventilation methods. Within the previous two decades HVAC technology has advanced in leaps and bounds, driven mainly with the dual concerns of energy efficiency and environmental awareness.

Heating Things Up

Home furnaces come in two basic types: gas-fired and electric. While gas technically lags in efficiency versus an electric furnace, the substantially lower cost of natural gas in most regions compared with power offsets the efficacy advantage and generally means lower monthly operating expenses. Even the gap in efficacy has impeded, as newer gas-fired condensing furnaces recover heat previously dropped in the combustion process. Forced-air furnaces are ranked on the AFUE scale. Short for Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency, the present federal minimum for new furnaces is 78 percent. Condensing furnaces offer AFUE ratings above 90 percent.

Clearing the Air

Energy-efficient houses are built to be as airtight as possible. Indoor air may therefore become stagnant, as pollutants and airborne particulates collect. Low-tech choices include opening windows and doors at moderate weather or using an attic fan to exhaust stale air on cool nights. More recent inventions — heat recovery ventilators and energy recovery ventilators — induct fresh atmosphere while simultaneously exhausting an equal quantity of stagnant atmosphere to keep a neutral indoor air equilibrium and maintain household humidity and humidity.

Keeping It Cool

Central air conditioning, composed of an outside condenser and indoor air handler that distributes conditioned atmosphere through the whole house through duct work, is still the golden standard of residential cooling in terms of power and comfort. Window A/C units have been utilized to cool person rooms where retrofitting duct work for a central system isn’t feasible. Air conditioner efficiency is measured by a unit’s SEER rating. Short for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio, the figure expresses the proportion of BTUs of heat energy extracted per hour versus the amount of electricity in kilowatt hours consumed. Current federal minimums require a SEER of 13 on all of the central air conditioners. Window units are exempt from the federal minimum, but most offer a standard SEER of 10.

Pumping It Out

Since a heat pump performs both the heating and cooling functions, the technology goes in a category all its own. Heat pumps heat and cool by moving heat energy from 1 area to another. In summer, an indoor evaporator coil circulating refrigerant consumes household heat and conveys it outside to be spread into the atmosphere by a condenser coil. In winter, the two coils trade functions and the exterior coil extracts latent heat energy from cold outside air, compresses it into refrigerant and moves it indoors to be spread into duct work from the indoor coil. Since no fuel is burnt, heat pumps pose none of the efficiency losses associated with combustion. In moderate climates where temperatures seldom drop below 35 degrees in winter, a heat pump transfers around four units of heat for every 1 unit of power it consumes.

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Heaters for Trees

Tree heaters are usually utilized in orchards and groves to prevent fruit from freezing or being damaged by frost before crop. Even homeowners can utilize tree heaters to safeguard their fruit-bearing trees during early frosts and freezes, however. Different types of heaters are available, though some heaters might not be lawful to use if they generate a large amount of smoke and other emissions.

Forms

There are five commonly used types of tree heaters, reports that the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Lazy flame, cone heaters and return-stack heaters all include a gas reservoir and also exhaust pipe, with cone heaters and return-stack heaters introducing variations on the exhaust pipe design to decrease emissions. Pipeline heaters redirect fuel from a central tank to burn at select heater places. Solid-fuel heaters consist of formed fuel briquettes that are placed among trees and set on fire to generate heat.

Fuels

Different fuels are offered for tree heaters depending on the kind of heater utilized. Heaters with fuel reservoirs can typically utilize liquid or solid fuels, though some heater versions are made for use with gaseous fuel tanks instead. Diesel and kerosene can both be utilized in liquid-fuel heaters, while propane is commonly utilized in gas-fuel heaters. Solid-fuel heaters can use wood chips, charcoal briquettes or other ready seams intended for simple burning. Pipe-fed heaters may use either liquid or gas fuels depending on the particular kind of heater used with the heat system.

Drawbacks

Using tree heaters isn’t without its disadvantages. Heaters which use kerosene, diesel and similar liquid fuels without return or filters stacks create large amounts of smoke and other allergens and might not be lawful to use in all areas. The release of heat into the open air is also inefficient, with some heaters being more inefficient than others; because of this, heaters only protect a small region and numerous heaters may be required in case you’ve got more than several trees. Some heater fuels are expensive as well and might be used up fast if using a heater having a little reservoir.

Supplementary Use

Tree heaters are occasionally used as a supplement to other anti-frost and freeze protection methods to provide better tree protection while decreasing the cost or other negative impact of the heaters. Fans and wind machines are generally utilized to prevent frost from forming fruit and trees by circulating air over and around the trees, whilst sprinkler irrigation processes continually spray water to the trees, causing the water to freeze instead of the tree itself. Warm water is also applied close to the base of trees to avoid the ground from freezing and raising the amount of heat that’s drawn from deep in the ground.

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Typical Residential HVAC Cooling Load

Homeowner satisfaction using a whole-house air conditioning system is dependent upon proper system sizing. A correctly sized air-conditioning program will keep temperatures and humidity in the conditioned space at comfortable levels despite high exterior heat and heat. Air conditioner cooling size generally is expressed in tons. 1 ton of cooling capacity equals removal of 12,000 British thermal units of heat per hour, an amount of heat that could melt a 1-ton block of ice in 24 hours.

Rule of Thumb

There is no single “average” cooling figure that’s valid anywhere in the United States. But there’s a general guideline given by the American Society of Home Inspectors that you can use to produce a quick but rough estimate of the cooling capability you will need, depending on the square footage of your floor area. In the temperate northern half of the continental United States, 1 ton of cooling capacity should be sufficient to cool between 700 and 1,000 square feet of ground area. In the hot southern half of the country, 1 ton of cooling capacity can cool between 450 and 700 square feet of ground area, presuming the house has 8-foot ceilings, insulation in ceilings and walls and tight-fitting windows.

Cooling Load Factors

There are at least nine factors affecting the residential cooling capability necessary for a specific home in a specific site. They are general climate for the area; average outdoor temperatures and humidity; insulation amount; air leakage; compass orientation of windows; glazing size and kind; existence and use of awnings, blinds or drapes; amount of shading from trees or overhangs; and amount of heat produced by equipment and individuals in the home.

Prevent Oversizing

Selecting the right size of cooling equipment is essential for optimal performance. Oversizing an air-conditioning system means higher setup costs and inefficient operation. An air conditioner not only cools the air but dehumidifies as well. But an oversized air conditioner cools the air so fast that the unit does not run long enough to dehumidify the air. The outcome would be a clammy feeling for the occupants and encouragement of unhealthy mold development. An undersized system will not trendy effectively about the hottest days when you really require cooling. A contractor shouldn’t only assume the existing system’s cooling capability was right and sell you just like it. Manual J released by the Air Conditioning Contractors of America comprises proven procedures for contractors to follow when calculating air conditioner size.

Great Quotes

A good estimate of the needed air conditioner size requires the contractor to measure the volume of each room and determine the amount of air leakage and the insulating R-value of the house’s building materials, insulation and windows. Other factors include the size, condition and location of supply ducts, positioning of the home and consequent heat gain through windows. Also be sure the contractor uses outdoor temperature and humidity averages particular to your area of the condition when designing the new program. Use of overall statewide figures could result in oversizing or undersizing the air conditioner.

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