Category: Fireplaces

Grubs and lawn voles are just two annoying insects that could lead to varying degrees of harm to your plants, lawn and garden. In addition to plant damage, voles can take lice, ticks and fleas and infest your yard using these parasitic arthropods. Fortunately, many control options are available that dispose of nuisances and stop them from returning.

Grubs

Grub is a general term referring to the larval stage of various insects such as beetles. Depending on the species, grubs reside in the ground or above ground. As an example, the grubs living in the soil might be the larvae of masked chafers or might beetles while above-ground grubs could be leaf-eating caterpillars or borer larvae. Soil grubs have a tendency to feed on the roots of plants and turfgrass and above-ground grubs consume leaves, buds and wood pulp.

Controlling Grubs

Options available for controlling grubs include pesticides, predatory insects and manual management. Pesticides with diazinon, imidacloprid or sevin because of their active ingredient control grubs in yards while the bacterium insecticide Bacillus thuringiensis eliminates the grubs of various insects above ground. Soil aerating sandals can help control grubs under ground by impaling the larvae using the spikes on the base of the sandal. Predatory insects are another option for controlling grubs both above and under ground. The Heterorhabditis and Steinernema species of beneficial nematodes feed on the grubs infesting lawns while woodpeckers absorb the grubs of wood borer insects.

Voles

Voles are occasionally confused with house mice. But voles have smaller ears, a curved head, curved snout and a tail shorter than house mice. Voles have a dark brown coat using grayish colored fur on their belly. They feed on various species of plants, munching on leafy vegetation, fruits, roots and stems. A tell-tale sign that voles reside in your lawn or garden is brownish feces that look like rice and grass clumps surrounded by grass clippings.

Controlling Voles

Common mousetraps can help control voles both inside and outside your house. Bait the trap by placing peanut butter under the pressure activate to avoid the vole from invading the lure without setting the trap off. You must put the baited trap in a right angle in the vole’s tunnel or runway. This control method requires consistently examining the traps once per day and removing any dead voles or re-baiting as required. To keep voles away, practice appropriate cultural control by removing high grass and weeds near your lawn where rodents can conceal and generate a habitat. Several commercial products designed to repel rodents such as voles are available at department stores and garden centres. These products contain thiram has the active ingredient and each manufacturer has its own instructions you have to follow for optimal results.

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The high tunnel greenhouse, also known as the hoop house, is a rather recent invention. In the early 1950s, Dr. Emery Myers Emmert built the very first plastic-covered high tunnel greenhouse at the University of Kentucky. Today it is one of the most popular types of greenhouse. Among the reasons for this popularity is that the ease of construction. A do-it-yourselfer with basic construction skills can build one in a weekend.

Structure

The structure of a high tunnel greenhouse is straightforward. It consists of a series of bowed ribs over which is stretched transparent vinyl. The ribs form an arch, making the roof of the greenhouse rounded like a Quonset hut. The ends of the greenhouse are typically framed in using wood. Since the ends are straight and sturdier than the walls, the door along with any fans or ventilation equipment have been mounted at the ends. The plastic is usually tacked at the base of the greenhouse to your baseboard.

Materials

You can make the ribs of the greenhouse from just about any bendable substance. The most frequent materials are PVC pipe or even a bendable metallic pipe, like aluminum or stainless steel. Unique pipe bending machines will be able to allow you to bend stiff metallic pipe. Alternatively, you can use saplings instead of pipe to generate a rudimentary frame. Or you can utilize hog panel fencing rather of ribs. The plastic covering is normally a polyethylene film that’s UV resistant. You can make the ends of their greenhouse from any rigid material, such as polycarbonate or fiberglass.

Utilizes

The details of constructing a high tunnel greenhouse depend on how you plan use it. For growing warm-weather crops throughout the winter, you will need to set 2 layers of polyethylene film using a air gap between them. The simplest way to install the double layer is to buy especially made two-layer picture. If you intend to hang planters from the bottom of the greenhouse, then you will need to choose hardy ribbing and you will need to brace between the ribs. If you plan to use the greenhouse in a hot or humid climate throughout the summer, you will need to install ventilation fans on a minumum of one end of the greenhouse.

Advantages and Disadvantages

The benefits of a high tunnel greenhouse over several other greenhouse kinds are cost and ease of construction. The materials used to build a higher tunnel are much less costly than a classic metal-framed, acrylic or glass-covered house. Anybody with basic building skills can build a high tunnel; it doesn’t require you to cut glass or build rafters. The disadvantage is the high tunnel greenhouse is a temporary building. Polyethylene film deteriorates in a few seasons. The wooden baseboard to which the ribs are attached sits on the ground, where it has a tendency to decay. Therefore, high tunnels need considerable maintenance if you would like to keep them over a few years.

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Decorative pillows are the jewelry of a room’s decor. They improve and encourage the plan scheme and also can introduce texture and pops of color to an otherwise dull interior. A little amount of exceptional fabric can earn a one-of-a-kind design statement, but can be a budget-breaker if custom-made by a professional sewer. But with a little bit of information and some preparation, a homeowner can create her own decorative pillows, reinforcing her own style and freeing up decorating bucks for a different purpose.

Set the pillow filler on a bit of furniture and oriented since it will be when complete. Measure and record the width since the distance from left to right and length since the measurement from the top to bottom. Measurements are listed as “width by length.” The measurements demonstrate the orientation of the pillow, indicating design management and closure placement. For example, a pillow referred to as “20 by 12” indicates that the pillow is 20 inches from side to side, plus 12 inches from top to bottom. The pattern generally runs from the very top to the bottom and a bouquet of flowers, for example, would run parallel to the 12-inch side. The closure would be set in the bottom 20-inch seam.

Assess the width of a pillow cover as from side seam to side seam, and also the length as from the top seam to the bottom seam. Normally the bottom seam homes the zipper or hook-and-loop closing. Add seam allowances and cut on the pillow fabric to the newest measurements. Seam allowances are typically 1/2 inch from home decor sewing. When inserting cording or welting to the flux, make the seam allowance exactly the same width as the width of the welt flange.

Establish one straight line and use it as the side or bottom of the pillow. Draw a line on the incorrect side of the cloth equidistant into the selvege. Use a carpenter’s square or T-square to mark 90-degree corners from this line. Measure diagonally from corner to corner within these perimeter lines and ensure that the measurements are equal.

Cut the fabric according to the design, not the grain, on a printed fabric. Cut a pattern into the required size using clear plastic or partially transparent non-woven interfacing. Center the pattern over the plan on the fabric and trace around the pattern piece. Cut on this line.

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Tired of her shadowy, closed-in flat, a New York mom wanted a new appearance to give her and her twin toddler girls a new start. Once a Brooklyn warehouse, this space had amazing brick walls and beamed ceilings that had been covered by Sheetrock. Interior designer Reiko Gomez stripped down the space to make it feel as a attic again and implemented feng shui principles to give both the customer and her home a new life.

at a Glance
Who lives here: Amom with twin toddlers
Location: Williamsburg neighborhood of Brooklyn, New York
Size: 1,800 square feet; 2 bedrooms, 2 baths

Reiko Feng Shui Design

“A lot of the remodel was really about eliminating,” says Gomez. “We removed walls, ceilings — all that had been needlessly added on, we took away.”

Dining table: client’s own; seat: Crate & Barrel; seats: Anthropologie; purple rug: One Kings Lane

Reiko Feng Shui Design

The apartment faces north and has windows on just 1 side, so Gomez opened this up as far as possible.

A preceding wall between the living area and master bedroom had established a long, dark and stifling space. So right off the bat, she tore it down to make a single well-proportioned room. “It isn’t very good feng shui to chop a space and limit its natural chi flow,” she says.

Reiko Feng Shui Design

Gomez tore down the older Sheetrock walls to expose the majority of the home’s original brick. However, of course, not all of the brick looked better in the beginning. She painted to give the brick a classic appearance and hide odd discolorations.

Gray rugs: vintage

Reiko Feng Shui Design

Taking away the Sheetrock presented an unanticipated problem: lots of plumbing. Exposing the ceiling and walls additionally showed a tangle of pipes and gas lines. Gomez had many rerouted, painted others whitened and utilized a few as a creative element — such as the aluminum piping close to the TV.

Coffee table: timber, client’s own; sofa: Restoration Hardware

Reiko Feng Shui Design

The kitchen and appliances design already worked well for the customer, so minimal changes have been needed. Gomez simply added a custom concrete island — an affordable choice to help stay within the budget — and also industrial pendant light for a bold appearance.

Island shirt: custom by Concrete Atelier; pendants: Barn Light Electric; bar stools: client’s own; array, hood: Wolf

Reiko Feng Shui Design

Once revealed, the wooden beams on the ceiling hung almost 16 inches down. Too many overhead beams make for bad feng shui, so Gomez adjusted them so that just 4 inches of every beam now hangs down. This also created room for added recessed lighting between the beams.

Couch: leather, Anthropologie; desk: Restoration Hardware

Reiko Feng Shui Design

The open space originally made it difficult to find a spot for the master bedroom. But the customer didn’t desire her massive walk-in closet, so Gomez turned it into a sleeping alcove. Velvet drapes and an arched opening allow it to be extra intimate and cozy.

Wallpaper: Timorous Beasties; chandelier: Anthropologie; bed frame: client’s own

Reiko Feng Shui Design

Now the client’s closet is located behind classic French doors in built-ins around the corner from her bedroom. Gomez had these beautiful worn-down doors shifted to function as closet doors.

Doors: Eron Johnson Antiques

Reiko Feng Shui Design

The customer wanted an office place within this bright corner, however it’s bad feng shui to have your back to a corner that juts out. To make it work, Gomez round the corner, and also the customer found a round desk that imitates the corner’s shape.

Reiko Feng Shui Design

The dining room area now sits directly down the hallway from the loft’s front door. “I believed that by putting the dining area within the line of front door, you would have the wow instant of seeing the chandelier once you enter,” Gomez says.

Chandelier: French classic, 1stdibs

Reiko Feng Shui Design

The twin girls’ room originally had no windows, natural light or air flow. Custom made transom windows that open solved all of those issues, and Gomez had a new ceiling fan set up to help new air filter through the space.

Wallpaper: Ferm Living; ottoman: vintage

Reiko Feng Shui Design

A wall of cabinets in the girls’ room provides storage without consuming much space. Gomez even integrated the radiator within this custom piece.

Your turn: Show us your attic renovation!

Next: Explore more great attic designs

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Magnolias (genus Magnolia) are a family of flowering trees and shrubs which are among the first to bloom each spring. Hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, magnolias open their huge, distinctive, saucer-like flowers prior to their leaves grass. These trees make striking ornamentals but also are sensitive to change, so monitor your magnolia carefully for signs of infection or injury.

Consider seasonal shift. Deciduous species of magnolias naturally change colour and lose their leaves in the autumn, and might occasionally start this process early when there’s a sudden drop in temperature. Magnolias also shed a small number of leaves naturally during the year, as older leaves eventually become worn and are replaced with fresh growth. In case a few person leaves are yellowing, with no sign of spread throughout a larger area of the tree, there’s ordinarily no need for worry.

Assess recent weather conditions. If there has been a sudden frost, a heat wave or a lengthy period of drought, then the magnolia leaves might be turning yellow due to weather damage. Though mature magnolias do not ordinarily need hand-watering, they should be watered during periods of low rainfall to help reduce wilting leaves. Make sure that the soil around your magnolia is well irrigated, as poor drainage can also bring about leaf discoloration.

Check your tree for signs of harm. Splits or cracks in the tree’s bark can lead to infection and make the tree more vulnerable to changing weather conditions. Prune back any snapped or dangling branches to the collar of the branch, making clean, diagonal cuts to encourage rapid healing.

Examine your soil using a soil test kit purchased from a nursery or garden center. Leaf discoloration can occasionally result from nutrient deficiencies or chemical imbalances in the ground. Iron deficiency is a frequent cause of yellowing leaves in magnolias. If your land has a high pH level, making iron less available, reduce the soil alkalinity using peat moss or another organic fertilizer.

Discontinue use of deicing solutions or other goods containing salt which may leach into the soil around your magnolia tree. High salt levels can inhibit the tree’s ability to take in water, resulting in yellow and wilting leaves.

Prevent problems before they start by supplying your magnolia tree great care during the season. Make sure that your tree contains affluent, well-drained soil and plenty of sun. Mulch around the base of the magnolia each spring to help keep moisture and keep down weeds. Avoiding heavy pruning, whenever possible, since pruning causes the tree more vulnerable to injury and infection.

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Also known as yardlong bean, asparagus bean (Vigna unguiculata subsp. Sesquipedalis (L.) Verde) is distinguished by the edible bean pods that frequently reach lengths of up to 36 inches. The plant, which grows to 9 to 12 feet, is also planted for its ornamental qualities and violet flowers. Asparagus bean is at precisely the same plant family as the black-eyed pea. Although the plant is a legume, it is not related to snap beans or pole beans.

Bacterial Blight

Halo bacterial blight (Pseudomonas syringae pathovar phaseolicola), shows up as wilted foliage and brownish spots that appear on the leaves and pods. The blight is readily recognized because every brown spot is surrounded by a distinct yellow halo. Halo blight often occurs as a consequence of damp, cool weather, as asparagus beans need warm, well-drained soil. Treat affected beans with a copper-based fungicide. To prevent halo bacterial blight, avoid using sprinklers. Instead, keep the foliage dry by watering in the base of the plant. Alternate planting locations at least once every three decades, as the blight stays in the soil for two decades.

Root Rot

Root rots are brought on by fungi that live in the soil. When asparagus beans have been implanted in affected soil, the beans frequently fail to germinate. If they do emerge, then the leaves turn yellow and the plant finally rots and dies. The primary rots affecting asparagus beans are Fusarium root rot (Fusarium solani) and Rhizoctonia root rot (Rhizoctonia solani). Both produce mushy, rotted stems and yellow, withered leaves, as well as red spots at the base of the stems, or on the stem just below the soil. To prevent root rot, find a new spot to plant the seeds following year, as the fungi can dwell in the soil as long as six decades. Keep the region around the plants clean and remove infected leaves. Plant asparagus beans at well-drained soil or raised beds.

Fungal Diseases

Asparagus beans are vulnerable to many fungal diseases in addition to root rots. Fungal diseases include white mold (Sclerotinia sclerotioru), suggested by a fuzzy white material that develops on the stalks, leaves and pods. Likewise powdery mildew isn’t difficult to spot from the white, powdery coating on the leaves and pods. Sometimes, a strong stream of water directed at the affected region removes mould and powdery mildew. Some types of fungal disorder cause dark spots on the leaves similar to halo blight, but without the yellow halo. To manage bacterial disorders, prune and dispose of affected regions. Make sure the plants are not crowded, as asparagus beans requires air circulation. You might need to use commercial fungicides if the disease is severe.

Aphids and Spider Mites

While asparagus beans are affected by various pests, most are nuisances that cause little harm. Aphids and spider mites can cause damage to the plant if left untreated. Spider mites are tiny and difficult to see, but they abandon a fine webbing on the undersides of the leaves. The leaves of a badly infested plant might look scorched. Spider mites frequently appear on plants that are not adequately watered, as the insects like dry, dusty conditions. Aphids are tiny bugs, but they are sometimes seen on the undersides or joints of leaves. Aphids suck the sap from the leaves, leaving a sweet material that frequently develops black sooty mould. Light infestations of aphids and spider mites are sometimes removed with a strong stream of water. Treat heavier infestations with insecticidal soap spray.

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Aquatic snails add a fantastic deal to your backyard pond health and water quality. Oddly attractive, snails function as nutrient recyclers that encourage clear water. They perform highly supportive functions in populating brand new and established aquatic ecosystems with beneficial bacteria. Snails have traditionally been somewhat overrated as top-notch pond scavengers. While they eat their fair share of algae, decaying leaves, and rotting leftover fish food, they do not eat fish waste, blue-green brown or algae pond scum. The secret to introducing snails for your pond lies in selecting varieties that complement the ecosystem.

Evaluate your garden pond’s features to determine which variety and the number of snails will work nicely for you. Take into account your winter climate and the size of your pond. Water gardeners cherish their own water garden plants, which most snails devour with relish. Nearly all pond snails are hermaphroditic (both female and male, self-fertilizing), a particularly unappealing trait which allows them to breed prolifically in will and overrun a pond very quickly.

Select Japanese black trapdoor snails (Viviparis malleatus) in climates with harsh winters. Also acceptable for warm areas, Japanese trapdoor is the only freshwater snail species which doesn’t eat live pond plants. These snails are not quite prolific, require both female and male to reproduce, and breed just twice annually. They do not litter the pond with eggs as they bear a few live young every year. A couple of members of this mystery (Ampullaria) and ramshorn (Planorbidae) snail groups are not as destructive to plants as several other snails, however they breed and reproduce so prolifically that they are frequently regarded more as pests than creatures.

Purchase snails from reputable suppliers. A good guideline for deciding the number of snails to buy is no more than 1 animal for approximately every square foot of pond floor surface area.

Float the clear plastic bag of snails in the pond water for approximately ten minutes to permit them to slowly acclimate to the temperature. Open the bag and fill it halfway with water. Close the bag and let it float for another 10 minutes as the snails adapt to this change in water composition. Dump the snails to the shallowest portion of this pond. Snails lock themselves up in their shells when angry or afraid, so that they may appear lifeless or lifeless. They’ll soon begin poking their way across the pond floor.

Put a large lettuce leaf to the bottom of the pond and then weigh it down with a stone if you have not seen your snails within several days of releasing them. This is typical of this mollusks, which are hard to see because they mix in with stones, the pond floor. Return in two or three hours and scoop out the lettuce leaf. It ought to be covered with aquatic snails.

Supply your pond snails with a supply of calcium for shell health in case your water pH is below 7.0. Calcium deficiencies cause shells to eventually become pitted and thin, and are detrimental to their general well-being. These deficiencies do not occur in difficult water conditions. Pet and pond provide retailers offer appropriate calcium supplemental materials including dolomite, limestone and coralline stones and gravels. Granular calcium carbonate functions nicely, also. Follow the packaging instructions for amounts and frequency of use.

Feed your snails regularly if you are not feeding any fish which are leaving uneaten food supporting. While snails eat plenty of algae, the plant doesn’t constitute a nutritionally complete diet for them. Offer a large lettuce leaf or 1/4-inch piece of raw zucchini once or twice weekly. Weigh the veggie down with a stone. Contrary to many traditionally held beliefs, snails aren’t pooper-scoopers and will not absorb the waste products of other river residents. In the absence of adequate food, almost all of snail species may turn to eating crops, alternative snails and even little fish to survive.

Maintain your water amount as low as you can if you maintain large aquatic snails. A number of them are very adept at escaping the pond, especially at nighttime. Toss stranded snails back into the water once you locate them, even if they appear lifeless and all dried up. They’re fairly likely to survive.

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Tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) are among the most favored vegetables among home gardeners, the flavor of their luscious fruit unmatched by commercially manufactured varieties. Tomatoes are usually hardy, but sometimes develop unusual bumps along their stems. These bumps may simply be an environmental response, but other times that they indicate the presence of a critical pathogen.

Root Initials

Tomatoes are unique among vegetables they easily develop roots along the length of their stems. Immature roots that appear as pale bumps form when humidity or soil moisture is high. These root initials are no reason for alarm when they form close to the soil’s surface and the soil is draining properly and the plant shows no other signs of infection. However, if root initials develop higher on the stem or the plant is wilting and showing signs of failure, your soil may be retaining excess moisture or you simply may be overwatering your strawberries.

Tomato Psyllids

Tomato psyllids (Bactericera cockerelli) are common pests in the garden. All these 1/10-inch-long, cicada-like insects are dark in colour, with white or yellow markings on their thorax. Nymphs have oval-shaped, flattened yellow-green to orange bodies that resemble scale insects. It requires just two to three weeks from hatching for these bump-like nymphs, which might cover affected tomato crops, to emerge as adults. Employ spinosad, abamectin or spiromesifen to infested plants, following label directions.

Bacterial Canker

Bacterial canker in tomatoes is caused by the pathogen Clavibacter michiganensis pv. michiganensis. It infects crops of most ages, but does not generally cause the formation of cankers except in adult plants. Indicators of bacterial canker include curling, yellowing or wilted leaves that eventually brown and collapse; as the disease progresses, the stem pith yellows, turns red or hollows out. Very serious infections may produce cankers on the plant’s nodes. There is no cure for this disease, but destroying plant materials whenever feasible and practicing crop rotation will help to minimize difficulties in gardens.

Alternaria Stem Canker

Alternaria stem canker (Alternaria alternata f. sp. Lycopersici) is an aggressive fungal canker that could influence stems, leaves or fruit. Dark black or brown cankers may form close to the soil line and continue to enlarge, eventually girdling the stem. This fungus persists in infected plant debris, with spores germinating most rapidly in the presence of water at a temperature around 77 degrees Fahrenheit. There is no cure for this fungus, but a variety of tomatoes resistant to alternaria stem canker are available to the home gardener, such as “Beefmaster Hybrid,” “Celebrity Hybrid,” “Floramerica Hybrid,” “Jackpot Hybrid,” “Lemon Boy Hybrid” and “Roma.”

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You do not require a good deal of time or materials to create an upholstered headboard of stretched and stapled fabric above a sheet of medium-density fiberboard or plywood cut to the desired contour. You require decorative upholstery nails or buttons, a staple gun, the wood foundation, upholstery foam, material and prayer. If necessary, you can even use a memory-foam mattress topper in place of upholstery foam, because these often cost less than upholstery foam. Even the most novice crafter can complete this project in about half a day or less.

Upholstery Foam

You require upholstery foam at least two inches thick or heavier cut to the contour of this wooden board or MDF. A serrated knife easily slices through the foam to size it to the form of the wood. Cover the foam with the polyester batting stapled to the wrong side of the wood to keep the foam in place. If you’re planning to set buttons on a tufted headboard, then first create the layout on the wood and then drill holes through it to fasten the buttons through the foam, batting and upholstery stuff.

Memory Foam Topper

A 2- to 3-inch polyurethane foam mattress topper, or even a 1 1/2-inch-thick topper that you double, offers a cheaper option than purchased upholstery foam, in case it’s possible to get the upholstery foam on the market. With a ridged bed topper, only face the ridges toward the wood base so that its flat side faces forwards on the headboard. The thicker the better, particularly in the event that you want to recline against the headboard when studying or watching TV in bed.

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How often do you put aside time to gather with family and friends around a table for a game of checkers or Monopoly? If the answer is “Not often enough,” perhaps your setup could use a bit of assistance.

There are a whole lot of game titles to choose from. If you like chess or checkers, you can buy a desk place that has a removable circular insert with an inlaid chess board. If you like playing cards, then you can get a felt-lined card table with cup holders. However there are many more choices than just those two. Listed below are a few ideas.

Produce a cozy game nook in a large area. Place your match table in a corner so that it takes up less space and isn’t the center of attention. Make sure there’s space to pull seats out and in easily.

Heather Hilliard Design

Move intimate in a more compact space. In case you don’t have room for (or do not want) a large game table, try out a tall accent dining table with two cozy chairs on each side for a romantic match room for you along with a special someone. I love the thought of placing it in front of the fireplace. So inviting.

Nunley Custom Homes

Produce a game room and library. Transform a spare room into a game room and library. You might have card nighttime and use the room to read a novel or play a private game of solitaire.

Visbeen Architects

Pick an unexpected site. Have a look at this creative use of a stairs landing.

Dayna Katlin Interiors

Forget game play. No need to coordinate with the dining table and seats. By way of example, keep a wood feel but soften a deep finished table using white painted seats.

Laura Bendik Interiors

Keep the theme of the room. Whether your area is bubble gum rustic or vibrant nation, incorporate a match table and seats that match the space.

Split your room to meet your table. Turn your living room or basement to the supreme chill-out space by incorporating a large game table in another activity zone.

John Kraemer & Sons

Consider upholstered seats. The chairs you get for a match table are usually comfier than dining seats because you may be sitting there for a while. They should be upholstered, and you may want them to have arms and sit on casters. Additionally you need more room for every around a desk, so you won’t have the ability to match as many as you want with slimmer chairs.

Windsor Smith Home Collection

Game Table by Windsor Smith Home – $9,800

Pick a game table in disguise. Tables disguised as a gorgeous heirloom, such as this one, can operate in many spaces without feeling overly casual.

Use a table. Go to get a round or square shape, and choose a finish which works best with the timber tones in the room.

FRONTGATE

Austin Game Table – $1,699

Attempt an unusual form. A hexagon-shape dining table offers an intriguing appearance.

Suzan J Designs – Decorating Den Interiors

Go for the reverse. A removable and reversible 48-inch dining table is ideal for a critical match table lover. Flip your tabletop from poker to double and dining the usage.

Read thousands of game titles in the Products segment

More:
Game Rooms: Carve Out a Spot for Fun
Let’s Chic-ify the Game Room

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