How Do I Restain My Hot Tub Cabinet?

Hot-tub manufacturers advocate staining the wood cabinet surrounding the tub at least four occasions each year if the tub is outdoors, but only twice a year if it’s inside. Because the tub is exposed to different elements, the wood could deteriorate and dry out. Refinishing the outside surface provides years to the cabinet by removing mildew stains, so protecting the wood from wear and refreshing the finish.

Wash the outside of the hot tub cabinet with a deck wash. Pour the appropriate amount of concentrated deck wash into a garden sprayer after the dilution directions on the tag. Attach the sprayer into a garden hose and spray on the outside of the cabinet with the wash. Let the wash remain on the surface for about 10 minutes, then rinse with clean water. Allow the cabinet to dry.

Pour blot and finish remover into a bucket. Wear gloves and use a paintbrush to paint the outside of the hot tub cabinet liberally with the remover, covering only 1 side at one time. Let the remover sit for about 30 minutes, then scrape on the cabinet with a putty knife to remove the loosened finish. Repeat on the remaining sides of this hot tub cabinet.

Dip an abrasive mat into a small container filled with mineral spirits. Scrub the outside of the cabinet to eliminate any finish residue. Allow the cabinet to dry thoroughly.

Pour fresh stain and finish remover into a bucket. Paint over the cabinet outside again with a clean brush, and let it remain on the surface for 10 minutes. Rub a wet stripping pad in a circular motion to remove the blot from the outside of the cabinet.

Rinse the outside of the hot tub cabinet with a rag dipped in water, rinsing a tiny area at one time. Allow the cabinet to dry.

Use a handheld oscillating tool armed with a fine-grit sanding accessory. Sand the outside of the hot tub cabinet to smooth the surface.

Paint the cabinet with a weatherproof deck stain. Allow the stain to dry and apply a second coat if necessary. Allow the stain to dry thoroughly.

Paint over the blot with a sealer designed for outdoor wood surfaces to protect against water damage. Use a paintbrush. Allow the surface to dry and apply a second coat to the cabinet.

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What's Liquid Sanding?

A smooth, durable paint finish depends on proper surface prep. Sadly, this key step will be the most least expensive and least favorite part of a remodeling job. Paints and sealers peel and flake if applied to a slick surface. Sanding roughens the surface and produces a bond with new finishes. Liquid sanding options, also called deglossers, reach the identical thing by dissolving the uppermost layer of varnish or paint.


1 significant benefit of liquid sanding involves overall time stored instead of sanding by hand. Electric sanders hasten the procedure, but they might also produce hazardous airborne particulate if lead-based or other noxious coatings are included. Liquid sanding products produce no more dust, eliminating the need to wash adjoining household surfaces. The end result is less mess and faster cleanup.


Liquid sanding products change from viscosity, and every manufacturer contains another collection of components. Many contain harmful solvents, such as naphtha and toluene, requiring the disposal of applicators after they’ve been used. Soap and water may be utilized to wash applicators employed for non-toxic varieties. Water-based, biodegradable formulas may help the environment, but don’t always measure up to the effectiveness of solvent-based sanding liquids.


Liquid sanding products may be utilized when trimming wood cabinetry, trim, floors, furniture and in the majority of applications requiring manual sanding. Liquid sanders work especially well on molding and furniture with intricate carving detail. Liquid sanding functions on many types of paints, enamels, sealers, varnishes and stains.


Apply liquid sander with a brush and lint-free cloth. Enable the solution to remain on the surface for the time indicated on the product packaging. Scrub the surface with a sterile cloth or rinse to remove the liquid, based on the formulation. Let the surface dry and repaint within the time recommended by the producer.


Certain finishes require a combination of liquid sander and dry sanding. Liquid sanders do a superb job dulling most common paints and eliminating contaminants such as wax, grease and oil. However, stubborn endings such as powder coat, catalyzed lacquer and oil-based varnishes might want the abrasive energy of sanding to rough up surface. Liquid sanding products don’t replace sanding to get smoothing unfinished wood grain and irregularities in painted surfaces. Using a rotary tool with a sanding drum or abrasive wheels have become the very best way to access those regions.


Solvent-based liquid sanders contain flammable ingredients. Do not store them near an open flame or heat source. All containers, rags, brushes and drop cloths have to be treated as hazardous waste and disposed of properly. Use only in a well-ventilated place due to the damaging fumes associated with liquid sanding products. Always wear gloves and protective eye wear if applying liquid sanding products.

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How to Clean Wood Cabinets Which Have Food Stuck into Them

Kitchen cabinets are magnets for all sorts of dirt, especially in the event that you’ve got little ones. Food stuck to cabinets is more attractive to flies, ants, cockroaches and other creepy-crawlies, so you need to wash them as soon as you observe the particles that are stuck-on. Strong detergents on cabinets with a clear finish, but you should not need them anyhow; food stains are removed by a detergent. In case you have to chip off pieces of stuck-on food pieces, avoid doing this with a metal implement, or you may unintentionally damage the end.

Scrape stuck-on food particles cabinets off with a plastic putty knife, which has sufficient rigidity to remove most dried food.

Mix 1/2 teaspoon of dishwashing soap in a bucket containing a gallon of water and then wash off the food with a palate. Avoid scrubbing with abrasive substances dull or scratch the finish.

Wipe the cabinets dry immediately after cleansing them. It blur and may penetrate the end if you leave water standing on them.

Wipe the area with a disinfectant which flies or doesn’t contain bleach, such as hydrogen peroxide, to get rid of.

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Can Ammonia Kill Mold on Wood Furniture?

Mold and mildew are forms of fungi that collect on damp surfaces, such as wood furniture. Both of these unwanted fungi removed and could be treated with ammonia, which is combined that aid in killing the spores.

Wash, Scrub and Rinse

Mold and mildew often collect on outdoor furniture that’s exposed to moisture in the air. However, indoor furniture is also because of pollutants that go through open doorways windows and venting systems. So ammonia is a good choice for removing it a sort of mold, mildew, is the culprit on hard surfaces. Unfinished, painted and glazed wood furniture may be treated with a combination of 1/2-cup vinegar, ammonia , 1/4-cup baking soda and one gallon of water. Wash the whole piece of furniture scrubbing essential in sections with accumulation of mildew. Rinse thoroughly and allow the piece to wash in clean air, preferably outdoors.

Take Care

Ammonia shouldn’t be mixed with bleach; the mix produces toxic fumes that are dangerous. Always utilize ammonia, or some other cleaning solutions, in areas that are well-ventilated. Protect your skin with rubber gloves, if you expect exposure and use protective eyewear.

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Eliminating Smoke Smell From Ceiling Tiles

Smoke, whether from cooking or cigarettes, tends to travel upward. Indoors, it reaches the ceiling and becomes trapped in porous ceiling tiles, leaving the ceiling smelling like smoke long after the true smoke dissipates. While brushing the ceiling may not be a favorite household chore, it is occasionally necessary to rid the room of odors. Sprays and sprays developed to eliminate as opposed to mask odors get the business finished. Eye protection is a must when working near the ceiling to prevent getting debris or chemicals in your eyes.

The Ability of Peroxide

Peroxide-based cleaners, some featuring citrus oils and surfactants, are designed to both clean slate tiles and eliminate or remove odors such as smoke. Spray the substance over the ground, let the cleaner to soak in for at least 10 minutes, then wipe off using a damp cloth. Repeat the process if necessary. The added benefit of such a cleaner is that the peroxide cuts through the movie left by some kinds of smoke such as tobacco; without such cleaning, the picture could make it hard to paint or prime the ceiling tiles.

Trisodium Phosphate Treatment

Trisodium phosphate is a powerful cleaning agent that eliminates smoke picture, which includes the smoke odor, from ceiling tiles. Mix one tablespoon of TSP in a gallon of warm water, then dip a sponge from the solution whilst wearing gloves. Wipe down the ground with the solution, followed by another sponge dipped in plain water. Do not oversaturate the ceiling; keep the sponges as lightly damp as possible, otherwise the humidity may harm the ceiling tiles. A ceiling fan or a portable fan pointed up in the ground helps dry the tiles quickly.

Vanquish Smoke With Vinegar

Vinegar eliminates odors brought on by smoke. Mix a cup of vinegar to 2 cups of plain water. Wipe the answer above the ceiling, or blend it into a spray bottle and spray the ceiling rather. A tablespoon of baking soda may also be added into this solution, if you like, for extra odor-removing properties. A slightly damp cloth, wiped above the ground tiles after waiting 10 minutes or so, helps eliminate lingering odors and residue. As with other ceiling-cleaning methods, don’t saturate the ceiling tiles, since they are not designed to hold water.

Ozone for Odors

An ozone-generating machine eliminates powerful smoke odors from the ceiling and the room as a whole. All these commercial-strength machines are available as rentals; some versions are quite a little more effective than the tiny units designed to operate continually in a home. Ozone reacts with odors by completely changing their chemical composition, neutralizing them.

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Assist With Clothes That Appear Dirty From an HE Top-Load Washer

HE, or higher efficiency, top-load washers provide the performance of a front-load washing machine, but look like a traditional top-load washer. Since they do not have an agitator, HE top-load washers may wash larger loads with a cleaning performance that is comparable to the majority of front-load models. Should you realize that your clothes aren’t arriving as clean as you anticipate, there may be one of a couple of common causes.

Slow Load Size

In case your top-load washer is not cleaning your clothes properly, it may be because you have selected the wrong load size. Your clothes mush transfer through the water in your washing machine with the right turnover action in order for the soils and soap to be rinsed in the clothes. Normally, a little load is about 2 to 3 pounds, or 1/4 basket complete to get an average-sized laundry basket. Medium loads are usually 4 to 6 pounds, or 1/2 basket complete. The huge atmosphere is for 7 to 10 pounds of clothes, or a complete basket.

Improper Loading

How you load the clothes on your top-load HE washer can impact how clean they come out. Wrapping the things around each other or balling them all together might reduce wash performance, because they can’t transfer around the water openly. If the individual things do not move in and on top of the water, then they can’t turn over, which is necessary to push the water and detergent through the materials. Load each item separately at a loose stack to make sure that it moves freely through the water.

Wrong Temperature Setting

Hot Water is necessary to remove dirt from heavily soiled things, but warm water gets most light soils clean. If you’re using cold water, then select a cold water detergent as well, or your clothes may not appear as clean as they need to. Check the labels of the garments to make sure that you’re using the recommended temperature setting. While cold water is energy-efficient, several kinds of soils can only be eliminated with warm or hot washes. If you’re using a hot or warm atmosphere and the clothes still aren’t coming clean, verify that the fill hoses are connected to the appropriate faucets.

Water or Detergent Issues

At times the water itself may cause your clothes to look dirty after washing. If your garments have a yellowish to orange tint, there may be high levels of iron in your water. This can be fixed by installing an iron filter. If you’ve got hard water, which includes mineral deposits, minerals in the water can mix with soap to form a scum, which causes your laundry to appear dingy and unclean. There are packaged powders accessible to soften your laundry water, or you may put in a whole-home water softener. How you add your detergent may also affect how clean the garments come out. Pouring the detergent on top of the load reduces its cleaning effectiveness, because some clothes get too much detergent, while those below do not get sufficient. Fill the machine and then add soap until you add the laundry.

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How to Paint Stained Oak Wainscoting

Stained oak wainscoting doesn’t suit everyone’s preferences, however applying a few coats of paint above it will lead to a streaky, discolored mess. While classified as a hardwood, oak is also open-grain, meaning it’s visible pores. This gives oak plenty of personality, but also means it does not absorb paint evenly. When you take the time to prepare your wainscoting carefully, you make certain that if you do visit paint it, then you are going to end up with a smooth, professional finish.

Tape round the wainscoting with painter’s tape. Put plastic sheeting on the ground and secure it just beneath the bottom trim. Open doors and windows if possible to maintain good ventilation.

Mix a couple of tablespoons of mild detergent in a bucket of warm water. Wash the wainscoting, removing some grease or dust, then rinse with a clean rag. Don’t oversaturate the wood. Permit the wainscoting dry completely.

Brush a liquid deglosser on a small section of the wainscoting and then wipe away the excess with a clean rag. Work your way throughout the wall. Always follow manufacturer instructions with regard to how long to let the deglosser sit; however, don’t let the product dry on the wall. Working in tiny sections allows you to control just how long the product has to get the job done. If the oak is not overly shiny, skip this step.

Sand in the direction of the grain with a 100-grit sanding block. Going against the grain tears the wood, leading to an uneven paint job. While a sanding machine could be tempting, they are not as successful as hand sanding on oak. When you’re done, then vacuum up the dust on the wainscoting and ground. Use tack cloths to get into any hard-to-reach places or to get a last wipe-down. This prevents dust from getting stuck in the merchandise you apply later.

Apply clear, water-based grain filler to the wainscoting, sealing the pores of the pine. Working in tiny sections, brush to the product against the grain first and then with the grain to get the last pass. Wipe away the excess with a lint-free rag when indicated from the producer. Specific application excels by producers, so always follow the instructions on the grain filler packaging.

Sand the wainscoting lightly with 180-grit sandpaper after the filler has cured in accordance with the manufacturer instructions, typically overnight. Even if the grain binder says that it is self-leveling, a light sanding is essential to get a smooth finish. Vacuum the wainscoting down to remove dust.

Inspect the wainscoting. In case any nail holes are visible, then fill them with wood filler or paintable caulk. Let the merchandise dry, lightly sand it level with the surrounding region and wipe down the area with a tack cloth.

Implement stain-blocking, water-based primer to conceal the stain color and prep the wainscoting. If you’re going from a very dark stain to a mild paint color, have your paint specialist tint the primer to coordinate with your desired paint color. Let the primer dry completely. If the oak wainscoting color is still quite visible, apply a second coat and let it dry.

Apply two to three thin coats of a paint color of your own choice. Let each coat dry before you apply the next one. This prevents peeling and bubbles, giving you the smoothest finish. Eliminate the painter’s tape and then drop cloths directly after you apply the previous coat.

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What Color Is Honeysuckle?

As most hummingbird aficionados know, honeysuckles are a favored with these tiny traffic to the backyard. The trumpet-shaped flowers also attract butterflies, and birds dine on the berries that are produced in summer season. Although the white to yellowish flowers of the invasive and non-native Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) are possibly the most familiar, honeysuckles arrive in a delightful range of colours, varying from white to deep orange, in both native and cultivated species. Most honeysuckles grow in sun or light shade and are tolerant of an assortment of soils.


Lonicera tragophylla honeysuckle has no known common name and unscented, large, yellowish to orange summer flowers. It is a deciduous vine that is native to China and grown in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 10. A quick-change artist, Lonicera quinquelocularis is a deciduous honeysuckle whose creamy white flowers turn a dark yellow as they age. Oval, translucent fruit trace. This honeysuckle grows well in USDA zones 5 through 9. A native species with an intriguing name, swamp fly, Lonicera oblongifolia includes yellowish-white flowers that produce fruit. It is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 10.


Lonicera periclymenum or woodbine is a highly fragrant honeysuckle valued not just for its delicious scent but also for its vigorous growing growth habit and white to cream flowers that open in midsummer. It is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 10. Lonicera albiflora, or the southern white honeysuckle, is native to the western United States. Showy white flowers appear in groups at the end of divisions and are followed by clusters of red fruit. Lonicera albiflora is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 10.


With long-tubed, red flowers, Lonicera sempervirens, or trumpet honeysuckle, is evergreen in mild climates but deciduous in harsher regions. It is a vigorous climber, reaching 12 feet or more, and it’s native to the southern and eastern United States. It grows well in USDA zones 4 through 10. A large honeysuckle native to China, Lonicera henryi is an evergreen vine that grows to 30 feet in perfect conditions. Blooms are red and yellow and are produced in summer and spring. Purple-black berries follow. This honeysuckle is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 10.


Tatarian honeysuckle, Lonicera tatarica, is a bushy honeysuckle that creates trumpet-shaped, pink flowers in late spring to early summer. Red berries follow at the summer to fall. This pink honeysuckle grows well in USDA zones 2 through 9. The California honeysuckle, or southern honeysuckle (Lonicera hispidula), is native to the Golden State and other areas of the western United States. It is a deciduous climbing tree with deep pink flowers and vibrant red grapes and is hardy in USDA zones 7 through 9.


Orange honeysuckle (Lonicera ciliosa) is native to the western United States. Flowers are orange-red and produced in clumps of 20 or more blossoms. It blooms May to July and is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. Giant honeysuckle, or Burmese honeysuckle (Lonicera hildebrandiana), is native to Southeast Asia and grows aggressively, reaching heights of 30 feet. The 4-inch-long, faintly scented blooms are cream at first but age to a deep orange in summer. It is hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11.

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Plum Tree Size

Plum tree (Prunus spp.) Size varies, depending on the species and cultivar. The rootstock onto which a tree is grafted also impacts the height. The adult size of this tree may also be affected by growing conditions. Some plum trees boom and easily reach their entire size in dry soil with an alkaline pH, while others will fight to live and could be stunted.

Drought-Tolerant Plum Trees

Wild or American plum trees (Prunus americana) and also chickasaw plums (P. angustifolia) are drought-tolerant species which grow well with supplemental moisture or at dry conditions. American plums can grow to a mature height of 20 to 40 feet but usually top out in a height and canopy width of 25 feet. They produce fragrant, white flowers with a pale pink blush at the spring, followed by 1-inch diameter burgundy, red or yellow-brown plums. They’re hardy at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 to 8. Clay, loamy or sandy soil with acidic, neutral or alkaline pH is fine using a full or partial sunlight exposure. Chickasaw plums vary in their adult height. They can grow in shrub form using a mature height of 4 to 10 feet or in tree form, to a height of 25 feet. These are late-winter blooming plums that produce fragrant, white flowers followed by tart, 1/2-inch diameter reddish to yellow plums. Chickasaw plums grow in USDA zones 6 to 9 and grow well in acidic clay, loamy or sandy soil that drains fast. Full sun is best, however they will grow in partial shade.

Dwarf Plum Trees

European plum trees (P. domestica) usually grow to 25 feet tall. They produce fragrant, white spring flowers followed by an abundance of edible black, yellow or green 1/2- to 1 1/2-inch diameter plums. Clay, loamy or sandy soil with acidic, neutral or alkaline pH is great for this particular tree having a full sun exposure. It grows best when the ground is kept uniformly moist. The “Stanley” dwarf plum cultivar (P. domestica “Stanley”) comes at three heights. The standard height is 15 to 20 feet while the semi-dwarf is 12 to 15 feet tall and the dwarf is 8 to 10 feet tall. They all develop a canopy width very similar to their height. The species and dwarf cultivars have comparable growth requirements in addition to flowering and fruiting habits. They are usually hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9, though that varies depending on the cultivar and rootstock.

Plum Trees With Burgundy Foliage

Cherry plum trees (P. cerasifera) may grow into a mature height of 15 to 30 feet and canopy width of 15 to 25 feet but typically grow to 15 to 25 feet tall with a canopy width around 20 feet. In the spring they produce white flowers with a pink blush, followed by an abundance of blue, crimson, 1/2- to 1 1/2-inch diameter plums. The leaf is burgundy- to bronze-green. The “Krauter Vesuvius” cultivar (P. cerasifera “Krauter Vesuvius”) rises to a height of 20 to 25 feet using a 15-foot-wide canopy and deep burgundy foliage. In late winter or early spring, “Krauter Vesuvius” trees produce fragrant pink flowers, but a few, if any, 1 1/2- to 3-inch diameter purple plums. Cherry plum trees are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8. They grow best in loamy, acidic soil that drains fast in sunlight but will also grow in clay and sandy soil or using a partial colour exposure.

Plum Trees With Big Fruit

Japanese plum trees (P. salicina) and Mexican plum trees (P. mexicana) produce big, creamy plums which may be around 3 inches in diameter. Both species grow to a width and height of approximately 25 feet and produce white spring flowers. Japanese plum tree fruit can be green, purple, yellow or red. Mexican plum tree fruit is purple or red. Both species grow in clay, loamy or sandy soil using an acidic, neutral or alkaline pH in full sunlight and are hardy in USDA zones 6 to 8.

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Can You Water Your Tomato Plant Right When You Plant It?

Appropriate watering technique is among the most important components of growing tomatoes. Watering too much or too little can cause poor plant health and diminished yield. During planting, it is important to provide the plants plenty of water to allow them to establish roots in the new soil.

Planting Tomatoes from the Ground

When planting tomatoes directly into the ground, it is ideal to plant while the ground is moist but not soggy. This enables the initial watering to drain more easily through the ground. Directly after planting, water the area around the bottom of the plant until it begins to puddle on the surface, then enable the standing water to soak into the soil. Water once more, again, allowing to puddle marginally before draining through. This will ensure the plant has enough water while it sends its origins in the new soil.

Planting Tomatoes in Pots

Tomatoes grow well in containers and also you should care for them in a similar manner as when you plant them directly into the ground. After planting, soak the ground surrounding the plant thoroughly until the water begins to run out the bottom of the container. This means the water has drained all of the way through the ground.

Future Water Care

In general, tomato crops thrive when watered deeply and infrequently. Supply 1 to 2 inches of water per week, whether through rainfall or supplemental watering. Every time you water, soak the soil thoroughly to allow water to reach the roots deep in the ground. Potted tomato crops require more frequent watering than those in mattresses because the soil loses moisture faster.

Water-Related Issues

Incorrect watering is a most important cause of disease in tomato plants. Light, frequent watering will lead to poor root systems and poor plant health. Inconsistent water, whether to little or too much, could cause blossom-end rot, a disease which causes large dark spots on the seams of their tomatoes. Mulching the area around tomato crops can help maintain a more even level of dirt.

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