Plants for a Wrought Iron Arbor

Modern wrought iron arbors are made from powder-coated cast ironthat protects the metal from rusting. Several distinct shapes and sizes are available for use in the garden. Wrought iron arbors offer a strong support structure for deep vines. Many showy plants create a classic look when prepared to grow vertically on the arbor.

Aromatic Vines

Fragrant vines bring pleasure if they are planted in locations where people are able to enjoy their aromas. The highly fragrant Carolina yellow jasmine (Gelsemium sempervirens) grows best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10, reaching 12 to 20 feet long. This evergreen vine covers itself with shiny green leaves and yellow trumpet-shaped flowers. The aromatic fiveleaf akebia (Akebia quinata) remains evergreen in USDA zones 5 through 9 unless it’s exposed to freezing temperatures. This fast-growing deciduous vine produces bluish-green leaves and drooping purple blossoms.

Evergreen Leaves

Evergreen vines cover a wrought iron arbor with year-round shade. “Charisma” bower vine (Pandorea jasminoides “Charisma”) creates evergreen twining branches that grow 15-to-25 feet long in USDA zones 9 through 11. Pale pink trumpet-shaped blossoms with purple throats float over glossy green leaves with cream-colored borders. Potato vine (Solanum jasminoides), another evergreen climber, thrives in USDA zones 9 through 11. This shrubby vine reaches 20-to-25 feet long and contains bluish-white blossoms, which attract hummingbirds.

Fruiting Vines

Fruiting vines take advantage of vertical space, which protects the fruit from ground-bound garden pests. The hardy kiwi vine (Actinidia arguta “Issai”) is a hefty climber that attains 12 to 20 feet and blooms with greenish-white spring flowers in USDA zones 3 through 8. This sun-loving vine produces edible fruit in the fall. Purpleleaf grapes (Vitis vinifera “Purpurea”) grow best in USDA zones 6 through 9 and creates woody stems 20 feet long covered in purple leaves. In the fall, the leaves turn red, and bunches of little blue-black grapes appear on the stalks.

Showy Flowers

Vines with showy flowers create a lush tropical feel to the wrought iron arbor by brightening up the dark metal. The climbing rose “All Ablaze” (Rosa x WEKsamsou) grows deciduous comes from USDA zones 5 through 10 that reach 8-to-12 feet tall. Bright red double-ruffled flowers appear in the spring and again in the summertime. The clematis “Ernest Markham” (Clematis “Ernest Markham”) grows well in USDA zones 4 through 11, producing a mass of magenta summertime flowers, that reach 4 inches wide. This sun-loving vine grows 10-to-15 feet long.

See related


Varieties of Persian Melons

Persian melons are actually muskmelons, produced with a vining plant (Cucumis melo) that originated in Persia, in the region now known as Iran. The fruit gets its name in the sweet, musky odor when ripe. Persian melon plants were brought to the Americas in the 17th century by early settlers. Today, several types of Persian melons are widely available and create good growing selections for a home gardener.

Netted Melons

Persian melons using a outer surface covered in a irregular green pattern resembling a net are called netted melons and belong to the Reticularis group. The melon commonly known as a cantaloupe in the U.S. is a part of the group. Cantaloupes are notable for their bright orange peel and strong, sweet flavor when ripe. Like most netted melons, cantaloupes are ripe when the fruit falls easily from the vine. Other netted melons include the Galia melon, a native of Israel with pale orange flesh, and the Charantais melon, originally from France and marginally smaller than the cantaloupe.

Yellow Melons

Several Persian melons are notable for their strongly colored yellow exteriors. By way of example, canary melons, also known as Spanish melons, have glowing yellow outer rinds and cream-colored, juicy, mild-flavored flesh. Casaba melons, another yellow melon, are unusual for their wrinkled, yellow rind, their oval shape that tapers on the stem end and their size, with individual melons reaching a weight of up to 8 pounds. Casaba melons mature late in the season, and create best flavor when left on the vine until fully ripe and slightly soft.

Green Melons

A few Persian melons, such as the Crenshaw melon, have dark green exteriors, developed by crossing different varieties. Crenshaws have flavor very similar to that of the Casaba melon, one of its parents, but also a somewhat wrinkled, dark green rind that softens to yellow green as it ripens. Crenshaw melons also tend to be big, averaging about 5 pounds, and may have flesh that’s either greenish or salmon-pink. Like most melon plants, Crenshaw melons need deep watering that thoroughly soaks the ground while they are growing, followed by reduced watering to enhance the flavor of ripening fruit.

Honeydew Melons

Honeydew melons are bigger than most Persian melons, averaging about 2 to 4 pounds. Many honeydews possess a silvery white to slightly green outer shade, and light green or white flesh. Their flavor is sweet but subtle, and the flesh is smooth in texture. Like most Persian melons, honeydews develop best in well-drained, sandy to loamy soil. They prefer slightly acidic soil, but a pH lower than 6.0 may cause yellowing foliage and imperfect flowers.

See related


The Greatest Shrubs for Septic Risers

Septic risers are an unattractive necessity for most kinds of septic systems. Shrubs can be planted to help disguise the risers however they need to be planted at least 10 feet from the cylinder the risers are around and the absorption area, if your septic system has one. Drought-tolerant shrubs and shrubs that thrive in dry conditions will be perfect for use about septic risers, as they are not likely to spread invasive roots toward the septic system seeking water. Such shrubs that also blossom may add flowery interest into the septic riser display.

Spring Floral Interest

Fetterbush (Lyonia lucida) and pipestem (Agarista populifolia) are drought-tolerant evergreen shrubs that may be planted as displays with spring flowery interest. Fetterbush shrubs, also referred to as stagger-bush or shiny lyonia, typically grow to a height of 3 to 6 feet and create fragrant pink, white or red flowers. They are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 to 10 and thrive in dry, sandy soil. Pipestem shrubs, also referred to as Florida hobblebush or Florida leucothoe, grow to a height of 8 to 12 feet and create fragrant creamy white flowers. They are hardy in USDA zones 7 to 9 and grow well in dry soil but prefer supplemental water during dry spells. Both shrubs will grow in full sunlight or partial shade.

Summer Floral Interest

Purple sage (Leucophyllum frutescens) and oleander (Nerium oleander) can be planted for displays that provide summer flowery curiosity; the two shrubs grow in full sunlight or partial shade. Purple sage is a semi-evergreen shrub, hardy in USDA zones 7 to 10. It grows to 3 to 5 feet tall in dry, sandy conditions or 5 to 8 feet tall in garden soil with supplemental water. The foliage may be green, gray-green or silvery flowers and green may be blue, pink, purple or white, depending on the cultivar. It is drought-tolerant and takes fast-draining soil. Oleander is hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10 and grows to 20 feet tall and 10 feet wide with a naturally round shape. The flowers may be pink, red, salmon, yellow or white, depending on the cultivar. It’ll grow in soil that tends to remain moist or dry and is drought-tolerant. But oleander is poisonous if ingested and may lead to skin irritation, so it shouldn’t be planted where kids and pets play.

Fall Floral Interest

Thorny elaeagnus (Elaeagnus pungens) and thryallis (Galphimia glauca) are evergreen shrubs that grow fairly quickly. Thorny elaeagnus, also referred to as silverthorn, grows to 15 feet tall and 20 feet wide with a naturally round shape. It blooms in late fall and early winter, producing small, fragrant white flowers followed by berries that attract birds. This drought-tolerant shrub is hardy in USDA zones 7 to 9 and will grow in most kinds of soil, including fast-draining sandy soil. Either a partial shade or full sunlight exposure is fine. Thryallis is hardy in USDA zones 9 to 11, growing to a height and width of 6 feet with a curved contour and light green foliage. In late summer and fall, it produces bright yellow flowers held in 4- to 6-inch long clusters. It is a drought-resistant shrub that thrives in dry, fast-draining soil with a full sun exposure.

Year-round Floral Interest

Butterfly bushes (Buddleja davidii) and Knock Out roses (Rosa radrazz) are deciduous shrubs that bloom from spring through fall. In warm Mediterranean climates, however, they keep most of their foliage and continue to blossom, providing a year-round display. Butterfly bushes grow 6 and 12 feet tall and 4 to 15 feet wide, depending on the cultivar, with long, arching branches and gray-green foliage. They are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 10 and thrive in fast-draining soil that tends to remain dry. Knock Out roses are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9, growing to a height of 4 feet and width of 3 feet. Their flowers may be single- or double-form and pink, red, yellow or white. Knock Out roses are drought-tolerant and highly resistant to blackspot and fungal diseases. Both shrubs will grow in partial or full sun exposures.

See related


The Average Height for Tomato Plants

Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) are especially delicious when allowed to ripen fully on the plant. Among the best ways to enjoy these wonderfully delicious fruits is to grow them on your home garden. Tomato plants can be found in a number of varieties that reach different heights. Selecting the ideal type for your situation is a significant initial step in starting your tomato garden.

Determinate Plants

Some tomato plants are called determinate because they’re programmed to achieve a particular height. When a determinate plant creates a final cluster of flowers at its terminal growing point, a signal is sent to the plant that slows and eventually stops its growth. These ranges reach heights between 3 feet and 5 feet at maturity. Determinate tomatoes are normally bushy plants that ripen fruit over a relatively short period, so starting several plants in series, spacing them apart by a couple weeks, can help lengthen your harvest. Fantastic varieties of the type comprise “Brandywine” and “Brandywine Pink,” both heirloom varieties, “Roma” and “San Marzano,” both paste-tomato manufacturers, “Mountain Belle,” which creates cherry tomatoes, along with “Mountain Gold,” with yellow tomatoes.

Indeterminate Plants

Tomato plants that continue to grow and become poorer throughout the growing season have been classified as indeterminate. These are older varieties that resemble the first, wild plant, putting flowers just on lateral branches and never to the terminal growing point. When grown on supports, the following plants need pruning late in the season to control their growth and also force plant energy into fruit production. If left unpruned, they could achieve heights of well above 7 or 8 feet. Indeterminate plants have a tendency to ripen their fruit later in the season and also produce more ample foliage than determinate types. Varieties include “Ancient Girl,” that an early-ripening red tomato, “Better Boy” and “Supersonic,” strong, disease-resistant plants, and “Beefmaster” and “Supersteak,” which produce extra large tomatoes that are exceptional sliced for new eating.

Patio Tomatoes

Dwarf tomato varieties are especially suited to growing in containers, for example on a sunny porch or terrace. These plants typically reach heights of 1 to 2 feet at maturity. Some especially dwarfed varieties do well in hanging baskets or other smaller containers. In addition to supplying a gardener with delicious, edible fruit, the following plants also provide ornamental value. Good varieties include “Tiny Tim,” with crimson cherry-type tomatoes approximately 1 inch in diameter, “Red Robin,” which creates mild-flavored tomatoes, “Patio Hybrid,” with especially large tomatoes to get a dwarf kind, and “Small Fry,” adaptable to hanging baskets.

Tree-Form Tomato

The tree tomato (Cyphomandra betacea) is part of a different genus than the commonly grown tomato plant, nevertheless creates true tomatoes. Originally from high-altitude regions of South America, it does best in temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit and can achieve a height of 10 feet or more. A partially woody plant, the tree tomato creates egg-shaped fruit pointed at both ends, with skin of various colors, from orange or yellow to crimson and also reddish-purple, and delicious, sweet, low-acid flesh.

See related


Four Top Tips to Grow Tomatoes in Containers and Pots

The fruit of the tomato plant (Solanum lycopersicum, formerly Lycopersicon esculentum) is the most popular crop in U.S. home gardens, as stated by the University of Missouri Extension site. Putting tomato crops in containers eliminates the need for an extensive inground garden to grow tomatoes. A massive tomato cultivar takes approximately 3 to 5 feet of space, based on its container’s dimensions. The care that container-grown tomato crops require differs somewhat from that of inground tomatoes, but they are able to benefit you with bountiful yields. Tomato plants are hardy at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11.

Choose the Proper Containers

One key to successful container gardening is to utilize large enough containers. Rumors have big root systems and need a sufficient amount of dirt for them. A standard-size tomato plant needs a 4- to 5-gallon pot and does best in a container that’s at least 20 to 22 inches in diameter. Dwarf plants need 1- to 2-gallon pots or hanging baskets. If your area has hot summers, then utilize non-porous containers like plastic or glazed ceramic to cut down on the pots’ water loss. Wood containers like one-half barrels lined with plastic to slow wood deterioration are another choice. Clay pots are porous, allowing water to evaporate from the soil through the pots; tomato crops in them need more frequent watering than those in containers that are crocheted. Each container needs at least four bottom drainage holes; drill extra holes if needed.

Choose an Appropriate Variety

Some tomato cultivars grow much better in containers than other kinds. Small varieties to attempt are cherry tomatoes like “Tiny Tim,” “Tumbling Tom” and “Sweet 100 Patio.” Compact varieties developed for container gardening comprise “Pixie,” “Patio Prize” and “Patio Princess.” Dwarf varieties comprise “Florida Basket” and “Micro Tom.” Among the large cultivars that usually grow well in containers are “Celebrity,” “Early Girl,” “Jetstar” and “Sweet Tangerine.” Experiment with a number of your favorite varieties to see which ones grow best for you personally.

Utilize Clean Growing Materials

Container-grown tomatoes are more likely than inground tomatoes to encounter anxiety and to become vulnerable to diseases. Give your plants a good start using clean containers and potting mixes. Before planting, scrub all portions of the pots with water and soap, and rinse them well with water. The upcoming tasks are to disinfect them with a solution that’s 1 part household bleach and nine parts water, and to rinse them thoroughly with water. Garden soil shouldn’t be utilized because it comprises fungal and bacterial pathogens and often doesn’t drain well enough. Instead, use a bought, well-draining, soilless potting mix which contains vermiculite or perlite. Cut a layer of mesh window screen to fit the interior bottom of every pot, and set the screen in place before inserting the soilless potting mix so that the mixture doesn’t leak from the pot’s drainage holes.

Supply Enough Water

Tomato plants grown in containers are far more exposed than inground tomatoes to environmental conditions because they are not surrounded by just as much insulating material growing medium. Your container tomato crops’ potting mix may have to be watered every day and sometimes twice per day, particularly if the containers are at full sunlight or so are clay pots. Windy conditions also imply more frequent watering. Water each container potting mixture until you see water coming from the container’s bottom drainage holes. Curiously, tomatoes’ potting mix shouldn’t be constantly wet, which encourages root rot. If moist potting mixture clings to your finger or a wooden pen once you inserted it into the first two inches of a tomato plant’s potting mix and eliminated it, then the potting mix doesn’t need watering.

See related


How Can We Get More Nitrogen in Our Soil to Boost Nice Grass?

Since grass relies heavily on nitrogen to stay healthy and green, the chemical is often the first nutrient applied to a lawn. However, before applying hydrogen to your grass, test your soil to verify that it’s, in actuality, nitrogen deficient. If the soil sample indicates nitrogen is necessary, employ one of several effective methods to bring the mineral to your soil. Always follow label directions when using any chemicals, such as fertilizers.

Organic Approaches

Over-seeding your lawn using Dutch clover (Trifolium repens) is a simple, organic and reliable way of locking nitrogen in your soil. The clover is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. Another effective organic strategy — which keeps the grass mixture more traditional looking — would be to employ up to 1/2-inch of finished compost — the kind that looks, smells and feels like rich, dark, crumbly ground — into your lawn, a procedure known as overdressing. Another easy way to help your lawn get the nitrogen it needs would be to leave the grass clippings on the lawn after each mowing; nitrogen is reabsorbed as the clippings decompose. This alone can provide as much as half of the nitrogen a lawn needs.

Weed and Feed

A more common method for introducing nitrogen into the soil is to utilize a commercial weed and feed product. This product operates by employing a pre-emergent herbicide that destroys the weeds, while at the same time adding crucial nutrients like nitrogen and potassium back into your soil. Since weed and feed products are used in early spring before weeds have broken through the dirt, the absorbed nitrogen will provide your lawn an early-season increase.

Standard Fertilizer

Nitrogen needs of grass varies considerably based on the species: fescues, generally hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 to 7, depending on number, often need considerably less hydrogen than perennial ryegrass, hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8, while a few warm-season grasses require more of the mineral than cool-season varieties. Because many warm-season grasses tend to be heavy consumers of nitrogen, you are able to apply the mineral on a monthly basis throughout the growing season. Disperse involving .05 to 1.0 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per month (based on number), April through August. For lawns using cool-season grasses, apply .09 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet twice a year.

Too Much of a Good Thing

Care should be taken with any of these methods used to boost nitrogen in the lawn, especially with fertilizers, because too much nitrogen can cause additional issues. Although a fast greening of the grass often occurs with an overabundance of nitrogen, the lawn actually become less strain tolerant as its carbohydrate reserves are more rapidly depleted. This can cause a diminished root system or grass blades which become overly succulent — causing the blades to lose moisture too fast. Excessive nitrogen can also cause thatch accumulation.

Manage With Care

When using chemicals like weed and feed fertilizer or products, care should be taken to closely follow the manufacturer’s education. Safety equipment, like gloves and goggles, could be required. Other factors include applying the chemical when it is not windy, taking care not to pollute waterways or storm sewer systems and keeping young children and pets off the treated area for the manufacturer’s designated time frame. When using weed and feed product, read the caution region to ensure it won’t cause damage to the type of grass on your lawn.

See related


When Does Crepe Myrtle Leaf & Bloom in Zone 9?

The crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia spp.) Is an attractive, multi-stemmed shrub or tree that’s named for its blossomsthat resemble colorful crepe paper. Several types exist, including the common crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), also a 25-foot-tall plant, and also the Japanese crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia fauriei), which is now 50 feet tall. These plants develop in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 9 and 6 through 9, respectively. In zone 9, crepe myrtles leaf out in spring and bloom in summer, together with some minor differences from year to year.

Ancient Spring Growth

The crepe myrtle is deciduous, dropping its leaves and becoming contaminated during winter, when it consumes little if any water through its roots. At USDA zone 9, winter temperatures may drop to 20 or even 30 degrees Fahrenheit for short periods of time, with the last frost typically occurring in early March. The first signs of new life on a crepe myrtle look a couple weeks later, once the inactive, or inactive, buds start to swell as the shrub begins taking up water in the soil, which starts to warm. Although spring temperatures may vary from year to year, the crepe myrtle typically has small, new leaves revealing on its branches a couple weeks after the last frost in zone 9, or at late March or early April.

A Great Spring Start

Mulching the area under a crepe myrtle will keep its roots warm during winter and early spring, however, do not mulch the plant till it’s become leafless and dormant in the fall or early winter. Mulching earlier while it’s still growing may keep the roots too warm and prevent dormancy, risking cold injury to the plant when winter arrives. Add 3 or 4 inches of straw or shredded bark on the ground under the plant’s canopy, keeping mulch back in its base to prevent moisture accumulation. In early spring, remove the winter mulch to get rid of overwintering insects and their eggs, renewing it with a brand new layer to help conserve soil moisture during the upcoming season. In spring, when you observe buds begin to swell, then water the crepe myrtle regularly to get it off to a good start, but do not overwater. Aim for approximately 1 inch of water weekly, including rainfall.

Summer Flowering

Like all plants, the crepe myrtle gets a signal to begin flowering when days get more as the season progresses. The specific timing of flowering may vary a bit among the various cultivars, but generally crepe myrtles start blooming in mid or early season, and they frequently continue thriving through summer and into early fall, with some varieties flowering until the first frost. You can prolong blooming on a crepe myrtle by removing spent flowers before they dry and produce seeds, called deadheading. This stimulates the plant to set out another flush of blossoms, although this may be smaller compared to the initial crop of blossoms.

Potential Problems

The crepe myrtle is generally a powerful, easy-to-grow plant, but it can attract aphids, soft-bodied insects that suck sap from leaves and can cause them to wilt and dry up. If uncontrolled, aphids may also assault blossom buds and destroy them until they open. Aphids are best controlled by spraying the crepe myrtle with insecticidal soap, diluted at a speed of 6 tablespoons per gallon of water. Spray until all plant parts are dripping wet, and repeat each week or 2 as required. Crepe myrtles can also be prone to powdery mildew, a fungus that causes fluffy white spots on leaves, and sooty mould, another fungus that grows as blackish, fuzzy places. Both may interfere with development of foliage and flowering. They’re best prevented by planting a crepe myrtle where air cools well, regularly clearing away debris from under the crust, and watering only with a soaker hose or drip irrigation to keep foliage dry.

See related


How to Care for Michelia 'Alba'

Commonly known as white champaca, Michelia champaca “Alba” is an evergreen tree having an intensely fragrant blooms and glossy foliage. It rises at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11, in which it adds a tropical appearance to glowing garden beds with mildly acidic soil. White champaca requires moderate care year to keep it looking its best, but you will be rewarded for your efforts with masses of creamy white blooms from winter.

Watering Tips

Once established, white champaca does not require heavy watering . however, it ought to be watered during the summer to stop stress and dehydration. Root problems can arise in constantly wet soil, therefore it’s vital to let the soil dry out to the surface between waterings. Water till the soil feels moderately moist at the top couple of inches. A potted white champaca tree is particularly prone to root and dehydration problems, therefore grow it into a pot with drainage holes and water it deeply but infrequently. In areas having rainy, mild winters, stop watering in winter unless it has not rained for more than two weeks.

Fertilizer Needs

White champaca is a moderately heavy feeder and requires constant levels of nutrients through the busy growing season. The type of fertilizer and application frequency depends upon the age of this tree along with its growing conditions. Younger trees that are still establishing a successful root system require a complete fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 15-15-15, while established trees benefit from a booming fertilizer having an N-P-K ratio of 7-9-5. A white champaca in full sunlight needs more frequent feedings, irrespective of age. Mix 1/2 tsp of fertilizer in 1 gallon of water. Replace a couple of weekly waterings with the fertilizer solution in early summer and spring. Reduce feeding by one-half in late summer and early autumn, and quit feeding entirely in winter.

Pruning and Grooming

A white champaca tree has a symmetrical, spreading canopy having a clearly defined trunk. It seldom requires pruning since it has a naturally neat form. Some grooming during the growing season improves the tree’s shape and keeps the plant looking tidy. Snip off any debatable growth, like suckers, water sprouts or dead branches, at their base using sturdy, sharp pruning shears. Heavy pruning reduces flowering, so avoid removing a considerable number of live growth. Always soak your pruning shears in undiluted household disinfectant for five minutes, rinse and rub them dry before using them to protect against the transmission of diseases.

Potential Problems

A white champaca tree contains few serious problems. A younger tree may have problems with root diseases, but most can be prevented by watering correctly. Mealybugs pose the most significant issue. They reveal their existence with the white, cottony matter they deposit on the leaves. Small populations of mealybugs may be removed with a strong jet of water, although heavier infestations may require chemical intervention. Mix 2 1/2 ounces of neem oil in 1 gallon of water. Apply the solution with a pump sprayer, saturating the tops and bottoms of the leaves. Duplicate the treatment two to three times weekly before the infestation subsides.

See related


What Exactly Does Botanicare Silica Blast Do?

Silica Blast is a nutrient supplement for crops produced by the Botanicare firm to be used in hydrogardens and container houses and is intended to protect plants against extreme conditions such as drought, frost or heatwaves. Strengthen stalks the Silica Blast supplement claims to increase dry matter yield of plants and stabilize the pH of recirculating hydroponic gardens. The supplement is marketed.

What It Is

According to the manufacturer, Botanicare Silica Blast comprises at least 0.5 percent soluble potash and 2.0 percent chromium derived from sodium silicate and potassium silicate. The potash is present because of the silicon derived from potassium silicate. It is, based on Botanicare, among the only sources of protein for crops. The Material Safety Data Sheet concurs with the breakdown of components of the manufacturer, stating that the formulation is a combination of silicates of sodium and potassium.

What it Does

Silica Blast is intended to increase the likelihood a plant will triumph in an environment where nutrient needs or its water aren’t being met due to soil or weather conditions. Additionally, it is utilized in hydroponics, where soil nutrients aren’t present at all, due to the dearth of dirt used in these growing conditions. The manufacturer claims the silicate in Botanicare Silica Blast functions on a cellular level – helping form a silicate matrix within walls. The crops may continue to photosynthesize in stressful circumstances, by strengthening the cells.

How Much Use

How much is dependent upon the type of garden you’re working with. Container gardens demand a mix of 1/2 to 1 teaspoon per gallon of water to get program (2.5-5 mL per 4 liters of water.) . Hydrogardens are specific. If you’re growing medium plants which aren’t yet mature, 1/2 tsp per gallon of water (or 2.4 mL per 4 liters of water) is suggested. Mature plants require 1 teaspoon per gallon of water (or 5 mL per 4 liters of water.) The manufacturer recommends employing Silica Blast every or every other watering for container gardens and applying it to the reservoir of hydrogardens each five to seven days or to adjust the pH to 6.0


Silica Blast is an irritant which can cause irritation to skin and eyes, as mentioned in the Material Safety Data Sheet. Prevent contact with skin and use goggles when working with and mixing dry Silica Blast. If contact with eyes occurs, flush with lots of fresh running water. If contact with skin occurs, wash with lots of soap and warm water and eliminate any clothing or shoes. Seek medical therapy if irritation continues.

See related


Techniques for Apples

Pulling on a fresh, crispy and juicy apple in a tree may be a tasty fall treat, especially if you’ve got a tree in your own backyard. Apple trees require a little bit of labour and patience, but can thrive in regions of the nation. Exotic apple trees in early spring or late autumn and you may expect your first harvest in three years. So that you may grow the tastiest apples possible Meanwhile, take care of your tree.


Choose an area in your yard that receives full sun and other buildings or trees not shade that. The place ought to have soil, although apple trees thrive in many kinds of soil, the National Gardening Association accounts. Select a spot in your lawn to help stop damage. If your tree is planted at a low spot, the cool air will circulate it around, which may destroy the blossoms or immature fruit.


Plant two kinds of apple trees in order that they can pollinate each other. Apple trees are not self-fertile so each tree needs another apple tree to grow. Choose two kinds of apple trees about the exact same time for the large success.


Prune your apple tree in late winter until the buds start to grow. Opt for the component of the tree which will develop into the trunk, or the vertical branch to become your boss. Remove which are growing three to four inches under the boss from trying to carry over, to protect against another central boss, which may impact the growth and stability of their tree.


Sprinkle 2 ounces of 16-16-16 fertilizer around the base of your apple tree in late winter or early spring before the tree starts to bud, the University of California Cooperative Extension recommends. Apply the fertilizer about six inches from the base to reduce damage to the young tree. Water the fertilizer into the soil.

Pest and Weed Control

Choose species of apple trees to prevent damage from pests. Diseases and pests can result in severe damage. Eliminate and dropped leaves from the floor to discourage pests away from making their home in and around the tree. Weeds will suck the nutrients and moisture in the soil and controlling them will safeguard your apple tree’s health. Bring on any weeds from around the base of your tree when you detect them. Apply a layer of mulch to discourage future expansion.

See related