Designing a massive garden pond is a never to be taken lightly. The pond becomes a permanent fixture in your lawn that needs routine maintenance and the bigger the pond, the more maintenance it needs. All these water features can become the focus of your backyard oasis, with tranquil koi and peaceful plants adding to the ambiance.
The preparation phase is the most significant part building a pond. Decide on the size you want, then decide where you wish to place it. A massive backyard pond is usually considered one that retains 1,500 to 3,000 gallons of water, and also an extra-large one holds more than 3,000 gallons. As an example, a 10- by 10-foot pond that is 24 inches deep holds approximately 1,500 gallons of water. Call 811 to ask your regional utilities to include mark underground wires and pipes, then use spray paint to define your preferred pond area where it won’t interfere with ports.
Like a swimming pool, ponds need skimmers and filtration systems to keep the water clean. Make sure that the filtration system you select is designed to function with the amount of gallons you quote are on your pond. Locate a fast quote by multiplying the length by the width, then multiply that by the average depth of the pond. Multiply that amount by 7.5 to discover the estimated number of gallons the pond will hold. Look for systems that will help filter out algae and little debris in addition to ones that catch larger debris, like leaves, in a holding tank. It’s simplest to install the necessary plumbing and electrical pieces while you’re digging your pond, so plan for filtration from the beginning.
From the beginning of the job, plan the edges of the pool so they are raised above ground level to reduce rainwater runoff, which attracts excess debris with it. This can be as easy as placing pavers around the border of this pond to prevent runoff. A proper filtration system helps regulate a buildup of debris that can result in algae, but there are different techniques to keep the algae out of your pond. Natural methods include wrapping barley straw in a web and weighting it down in the deepest part of your pond. As it decomposes, it releases algae-inhibiting enzymes. Growing the right plants can also assist, as some, like anacharis (Elodea canadensis), consume the nutrients algae must grow. Waterlilies (Nymphaea odorata) also help by blocking sunlight algae needs from reaching the water. You can also pick chemical methods, buying liquid mixtures of bacteria and enzymes, but read the labels carefully to be sure they wo not harm your fish or plants.
Fish and Plants
If you are intending to add fish for your pond, go for a thickness between 24 and 36 inches to be certain the water is heavy enough to sustain the fish but not deep enough to stay cold on the base. Check your pond lining material to ensure it is rated as safe for aquatic life — most PVC liners are not fish-friendly, however linings like butyl rubber typically are. Insert dechlorinating agents several times before you place fish in the pond, then add more if add more water from your garden hose. Plants provide the fish areas to conceal and things to nibble on, but they don’t serve as your fish’s main food source — you still have to feed them. It’s best to place plants in pots around the bottom of your pond instead of filling the pond with dirt, which can murk your water. The pots enable you to control plants that overgrow fast, like the waterlilies, and swap them out seasonally in the event that you would like. But fish have a tendency to burrow into the soil in the pots, so cover the soil with gravel to keep out the fish.