Category: Tropical Style

Luxurious grape vines (Vitis spp.) , which develop in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 10, provide welcome summertime shade and greenery, not to mention that sweet fruit. Seedless grapes in particular provide quick snacks without the bother of seeds. Mediterranean climates are ideal for cultivating a vine or two, and a backyard fence might offer sturdy support with a few alterations. However, it’s also important that you know your lawn’s microclimates and design can make growing seedless grapes in your fence more complex.

Location and Cultivar Choice

Grape cultivars possess their particular climate preferences, so not all kinds for your own zone will work in your particular location. For instance, hotter, sunnier inland regions of Mediterranean climates that don’t find cool and misty during the night in the summertime are suitable for growing “Thompson Seedless” (Vitis vinifera “Thompson Seedless,” USDA zones 7 through 9), the classic green seedless table grape. Coastal places that have cooler nights in summer would not be suitable for “Thompson Seedless,” however they could be suitable for varieties like “Black Monukka” (Vitis vinifera “Black Monukka,” USDA zones 8 through 10). There are grapes available for both colder and warmer regions, which means you should be able to find one that you can develop. However, you must focus on the cultivar’s own needs and not simply the zone amounts.

Microclimates and Cultivar Choice

What direction your fence faces and what it’s made from can help determine the climate right from that place, no matter your zone. For instance, if you are living in a hotter, warmer part of the region, but your solid hardwood fence is on the west side of your lawn, grapes on the side of the fence within your lawn won’t become much sunlight. In case your neighbor to the west contains tall trees that block out the sunlight after midday, that will decrease sunlight exposure and the day temperatures. That place in your lawn could end up using a microclimate that is slightly cooler than is suitable for a cultivar like “Thompson Seedless,” and it just may not get enough sunlight for any grape cultivar. Spend some time observing the place where the fence will be to make sure that sunlight and temperature demands will be fulfilled. Search for tall trees in neighbors’ yards that may block the sunlight when they have all of their leaves in the summertime, too.

They Want Their Space

Seedless grapes must be planted at least 75 feet from seeded grape types. Seedless varieties undergo a procedure called stenospermocarpy, where the seeds that develop within the fruit remain little and unviable. The vines still have flowers and require pollination to set fruit, however. That means that if you’ve got a seeded variety nearby, you could acquire small seeds forming on your supposedly seedless grapes throughout that season if the seeded variety’s pollen ends upon the seedless variety’s flowers. Organic Gardening notes that most grape varieties have been self-pollinating, but that’s not going to avoid a flower cluster from using pollen from other plants if that pollen lands.

Air Flow

You can buy disease-resistant grape cultivars, but “resistant” does not mean immune. Organic Gardening warns that good ventilation and air circulation round the plant is essential if you would like to decrease the chances of the vine growing diseases. Set the vines toward the middle of the fence, as opposed to close the corners. Put in trellis support wires that maintain the vines a short distance before the fence, instead of on the fence itself. Put the initial wire 1 1/2 feet above the ground, and then place extra wires above that with 1 feet in between each wire.

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Annual arroyo lupine (Lupinus succulentus) and silver bush lupine (Lupinus albifrons) are two species of lupine, also referred to as bluebonnets, that burst their seed pods in spring to self-sow for another season. If you would like to save seeds from these indigenous plants, or some other bluebonnet species, then you need to pull the plants up when the seeds are ripe and just prior to the pods burst. To ensure you don’t miss this narrow window, pull the bluebonnets when the seed pods start to turn yellow.

Select Healthy Acids

Seed pods form on the terminal ends of bluebonnet flowers. To ensure the seeds you harvest grow into plants that are vigorous, pull up just strong, healthy plants in the flowerbeds to dry. Bluebonnets are prepared to pull when the seed pods start to yellow but still haven’t turned brown. This occurs about a couple of weeks after the flower petals have dropped. You may wait for the pods to turn brown but you run the danger of the pods bursting in the garden and spreading their seeds on the ground. To decrease seed pod drying time, pull the bluebonnets at one time of day when the plants are dry. Be sure you’ve got permission to harvest seeds and plants from the land on which the bluebonnets are growing.

Hang Plants, Collect Seed

After pulling the bluebonnet plants, hang them, using the seed pods facing down, to dry in a well-ventilated room. Spread newspaper below the plants to collect the seeds, or even better, place an open cardboard box beneath the plants. Hang the plants low enough the forks are included in the box, without touching the box’s bottom. When the dry bluebonnet seeds pods burst open, then they eject their seeds quite a distance. The box keeps them contained.

Expand the Seeds to Dry

When the seed pods have ejected their seeds, spread them in a thin layer on newspaper to dry for about one week. Dried seeds are less likely to become moldy. For seed pods that did not open on their own, pull them open and dig out the seeds. Dispose of the plants in the compost pile. Bluebonnet roots are full of sulfur and will help enrich the compost. Dry the seeds indoors in a room with good air circulation. Indoor drying permits you to control the room temperature, as well as the humidity level is usually lower than drying seeds in a garage.

Store the Seeds

When the seeds are dry, store them in glass jars using tight-fitting lids. Place them in a cool, dry place away from light. Humidity and humidity may make the seeds to sprout and thus don’t store seeds in a bright kitchen or in a moist bathroom. Label each jar using the seed type and the date the seeds were picked. Silver bush lupine (Lupinus albifrons) seeds, which grow as perennials in U. S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, in addition to other types of bluebonnets, should stay viable for two to three decades.

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Modern wrought iron arbors are made from powder-coated cast ironthat protects the metal from rusting. Several distinct shapes and sizes are available for use in the garden. Wrought iron arbors offer a strong support structure for deep vines. Many showy plants create a classic look when prepared to grow vertically on the arbor.

Aromatic Vines

Fragrant vines bring pleasure if they are planted in locations where people are able to enjoy their aromas. The highly fragrant Carolina yellow jasmine (Gelsemium sempervirens) grows best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10, reaching 12 to 20 feet long. This evergreen vine covers itself with shiny green leaves and yellow trumpet-shaped flowers. The aromatic fiveleaf akebia (Akebia quinata) remains evergreen in USDA zones 5 through 9 unless it’s exposed to freezing temperatures. This fast-growing deciduous vine produces bluish-green leaves and drooping purple blossoms.

Evergreen Leaves

Evergreen vines cover a wrought iron arbor with year-round shade. “Charisma” bower vine (Pandorea jasminoides “Charisma”) creates evergreen twining branches that grow 15-to-25 feet long in USDA zones 9 through 11. Pale pink trumpet-shaped blossoms with purple throats float over glossy green leaves with cream-colored borders. Potato vine (Solanum jasminoides), another evergreen climber, thrives in USDA zones 9 through 11. This shrubby vine reaches 20-to-25 feet long and contains bluish-white blossoms, which attract hummingbirds.

Fruiting Vines

Fruiting vines take advantage of vertical space, which protects the fruit from ground-bound garden pests. The hardy kiwi vine (Actinidia arguta “Issai”) is a hefty climber that attains 12 to 20 feet and blooms with greenish-white spring flowers in USDA zones 3 through 8. This sun-loving vine produces edible fruit in the fall. Purpleleaf grapes (Vitis vinifera “Purpurea”) grow best in USDA zones 6 through 9 and creates woody stems 20 feet long covered in purple leaves. In the fall, the leaves turn red, and bunches of little blue-black grapes appear on the stalks.

Showy Flowers

Vines with showy flowers create a lush tropical feel to the wrought iron arbor by brightening up the dark metal. The climbing rose “All Ablaze” (Rosa x WEKsamsou) grows deciduous comes from USDA zones 5 through 10 that reach 8-to-12 feet tall. Bright red double-ruffled flowers appear in the spring and again in the summertime. The clematis “Ernest Markham” (Clematis “Ernest Markham”) grows well in USDA zones 4 through 11, producing a mass of magenta summertime flowers, that reach 4 inches wide. This sun-loving vine grows 10-to-15 feet long.

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Persian melons are actually muskmelons, produced with a vining plant (Cucumis melo) that originated in Persia, in the region now known as Iran. The fruit gets its name in the sweet, musky odor when ripe. Persian melon plants were brought to the Americas in the 17th century by early settlers. Today, several types of Persian melons are widely available and create good growing selections for a home gardener.

Netted Melons

Persian melons using a outer surface covered in a irregular green pattern resembling a net are called netted melons and belong to the Reticularis group. The melon commonly known as a cantaloupe in the U.S. is a part of the group. Cantaloupes are notable for their bright orange peel and strong, sweet flavor when ripe. Like most netted melons, cantaloupes are ripe when the fruit falls easily from the vine. Other netted melons include the Galia melon, a native of Israel with pale orange flesh, and the Charantais melon, originally from France and marginally smaller than the cantaloupe.

Yellow Melons

Several Persian melons are notable for their strongly colored yellow exteriors. By way of example, canary melons, also known as Spanish melons, have glowing yellow outer rinds and cream-colored, juicy, mild-flavored flesh. Casaba melons, another yellow melon, are unusual for their wrinkled, yellow rind, their oval shape that tapers on the stem end and their size, with individual melons reaching a weight of up to 8 pounds. Casaba melons mature late in the season, and create best flavor when left on the vine until fully ripe and slightly soft.

Green Melons

A few Persian melons, such as the Crenshaw melon, have dark green exteriors, developed by crossing different varieties. Crenshaws have flavor very similar to that of the Casaba melon, one of its parents, but also a somewhat wrinkled, dark green rind that softens to yellow green as it ripens. Crenshaw melons also tend to be big, averaging about 5 pounds, and may have flesh that’s either greenish or salmon-pink. Like most melon plants, Crenshaw melons need deep watering that thoroughly soaks the ground while they are growing, followed by reduced watering to enhance the flavor of ripening fruit.

Honeydew Melons

Honeydew melons are bigger than most Persian melons, averaging about 2 to 4 pounds. Many honeydews possess a silvery white to slightly green outer shade, and light green or white flesh. Their flavor is sweet but subtle, and the flesh is smooth in texture. Like most Persian melons, honeydews develop best in well-drained, sandy to loamy soil. They prefer slightly acidic soil, but a pH lower than 6.0 may cause yellowing foliage and imperfect flowers.

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Septic risers are an unattractive necessity for most kinds of septic systems. Shrubs can be planted to help disguise the risers however they need to be planted at least 10 feet from the cylinder the risers are around and the absorption area, if your septic system has one. Drought-tolerant shrubs and shrubs that thrive in dry conditions will be perfect for use about septic risers, as they are not likely to spread invasive roots toward the septic system seeking water. Such shrubs that also blossom may add flowery interest into the septic riser display.

Spring Floral Interest

Fetterbush (Lyonia lucida) and pipestem (Agarista populifolia) are drought-tolerant evergreen shrubs that may be planted as displays with spring flowery interest. Fetterbush shrubs, also referred to as stagger-bush or shiny lyonia, typically grow to a height of 3 to 6 feet and create fragrant pink, white or red flowers. They are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 to 10 and thrive in dry, sandy soil. Pipestem shrubs, also referred to as Florida hobblebush or Florida leucothoe, grow to a height of 8 to 12 feet and create fragrant creamy white flowers. They are hardy in USDA zones 7 to 9 and grow well in dry soil but prefer supplemental water during dry spells. Both shrubs will grow in full sunlight or partial shade.

Summer Floral Interest

Purple sage (Leucophyllum frutescens) and oleander (Nerium oleander) can be planted for displays that provide summer flowery curiosity; the two shrubs grow in full sunlight or partial shade. Purple sage is a semi-evergreen shrub, hardy in USDA zones 7 to 10. It grows to 3 to 5 feet tall in dry, sandy conditions or 5 to 8 feet tall in garden soil with supplemental water. The foliage may be green, gray-green or silvery flowers and green may be blue, pink, purple or white, depending on the cultivar. It is drought-tolerant and takes fast-draining soil. Oleander is hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10 and grows to 20 feet tall and 10 feet wide with a naturally round shape. The flowers may be pink, red, salmon, yellow or white, depending on the cultivar. It’ll grow in soil that tends to remain moist or dry and is drought-tolerant. But oleander is poisonous if ingested and may lead to skin irritation, so it shouldn’t be planted where kids and pets play.

Fall Floral Interest

Thorny elaeagnus (Elaeagnus pungens) and thryallis (Galphimia glauca) are evergreen shrubs that grow fairly quickly. Thorny elaeagnus, also referred to as silverthorn, grows to 15 feet tall and 20 feet wide with a naturally round shape. It blooms in late fall and early winter, producing small, fragrant white flowers followed by berries that attract birds. This drought-tolerant shrub is hardy in USDA zones 7 to 9 and will grow in most kinds of soil, including fast-draining sandy soil. Either a partial shade or full sunlight exposure is fine. Thryallis is hardy in USDA zones 9 to 11, growing to a height and width of 6 feet with a curved contour and light green foliage. In late summer and fall, it produces bright yellow flowers held in 4- to 6-inch long clusters. It is a drought-resistant shrub that thrives in dry, fast-draining soil with a full sun exposure.

Year-round Floral Interest

Butterfly bushes (Buddleja davidii) and Knock Out roses (Rosa radrazz) are deciduous shrubs that bloom from spring through fall. In warm Mediterranean climates, however, they keep most of their foliage and continue to blossom, providing a year-round display. Butterfly bushes grow 6 and 12 feet tall and 4 to 15 feet wide, depending on the cultivar, with long, arching branches and gray-green foliage. They are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 10 and thrive in fast-draining soil that tends to remain dry. Knock Out roses are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9, growing to a height of 4 feet and width of 3 feet. Their flowers may be single- or double-form and pink, red, yellow or white. Knock Out roses are drought-tolerant and highly resistant to blackspot and fungal diseases. Both shrubs will grow in partial or full sun exposures.

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Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) are especially delicious when allowed to ripen fully on the plant. Among the best ways to enjoy these wonderfully delicious fruits is to grow them on your home garden. Tomato plants can be found in a number of varieties that reach different heights. Selecting the ideal type for your situation is a significant initial step in starting your tomato garden.

Determinate Plants

Some tomato plants are called determinate because they’re programmed to achieve a particular height. When a determinate plant creates a final cluster of flowers at its terminal growing point, a signal is sent to the plant that slows and eventually stops its growth. These ranges reach heights between 3 feet and 5 feet at maturity. Determinate tomatoes are normally bushy plants that ripen fruit over a relatively short period, so starting several plants in series, spacing them apart by a couple weeks, can help lengthen your harvest. Fantastic varieties of the type comprise “Brandywine” and “Brandywine Pink,” both heirloom varieties, “Roma” and “San Marzano,” both paste-tomato manufacturers, “Mountain Belle,” which creates cherry tomatoes, along with “Mountain Gold,” with yellow tomatoes.

Indeterminate Plants

Tomato plants that continue to grow and become poorer throughout the growing season have been classified as indeterminate. These are older varieties that resemble the first, wild plant, putting flowers just on lateral branches and never to the terminal growing point. When grown on supports, the following plants need pruning late in the season to control their growth and also force plant energy into fruit production. If left unpruned, they could achieve heights of well above 7 or 8 feet. Indeterminate plants have a tendency to ripen their fruit later in the season and also produce more ample foliage than determinate types. Varieties include “Ancient Girl,” that an early-ripening red tomato, “Better Boy” and “Supersonic,” strong, disease-resistant plants, and “Beefmaster” and “Supersteak,” which produce extra large tomatoes that are exceptional sliced for new eating.

Patio Tomatoes

Dwarf tomato varieties are especially suited to growing in containers, for example on a sunny porch or terrace. These plants typically reach heights of 1 to 2 feet at maturity. Some especially dwarfed varieties do well in hanging baskets or other smaller containers. In addition to supplying a gardener with delicious, edible fruit, the following plants also provide ornamental value. Good varieties include “Tiny Tim,” with crimson cherry-type tomatoes approximately 1 inch in diameter, “Red Robin,” which creates mild-flavored tomatoes, “Patio Hybrid,” with especially large tomatoes to get a dwarf kind, and “Small Fry,” adaptable to hanging baskets.

Tree-Form Tomato

The tree tomato (Cyphomandra betacea) is part of a different genus than the commonly grown tomato plant, nevertheless creates true tomatoes. Originally from high-altitude regions of South America, it does best in temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit and can achieve a height of 10 feet or more. A partially woody plant, the tree tomato creates egg-shaped fruit pointed at both ends, with skin of various colors, from orange or yellow to crimson and also reddish-purple, and delicious, sweet, low-acid flesh.

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The fruit of the tomato plant (Solanum lycopersicum, formerly Lycopersicon esculentum) is the most popular crop in U.S. home gardens, as stated by the University of Missouri Extension site. Putting tomato crops in containers eliminates the need for an extensive inground garden to grow tomatoes. A massive tomato cultivar takes approximately 3 to 5 feet of space, based on its container’s dimensions. The care that container-grown tomato crops require differs somewhat from that of inground tomatoes, but they are able to benefit you with bountiful yields. Tomato plants are hardy at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11.

Choose the Proper Containers

One key to successful container gardening is to utilize large enough containers. Rumors have big root systems and need a sufficient amount of dirt for them. A standard-size tomato plant needs a 4- to 5-gallon pot and does best in a container that’s at least 20 to 22 inches in diameter. Dwarf plants need 1- to 2-gallon pots or hanging baskets. If your area has hot summers, then utilize non-porous containers like plastic or glazed ceramic to cut down on the pots’ water loss. Wood containers like one-half barrels lined with plastic to slow wood deterioration are another choice. Clay pots are porous, allowing water to evaporate from the soil through the pots; tomato crops in them need more frequent watering than those in containers that are crocheted. Each container needs at least four bottom drainage holes; drill extra holes if needed.

Choose an Appropriate Variety

Some tomato cultivars grow much better in containers than other kinds. Small varieties to attempt are cherry tomatoes like “Tiny Tim,” “Tumbling Tom” and “Sweet 100 Patio.” Compact varieties developed for container gardening comprise “Pixie,” “Patio Prize” and “Patio Princess.” Dwarf varieties comprise “Florida Basket” and “Micro Tom.” Among the large cultivars that usually grow well in containers are “Celebrity,” “Early Girl,” “Jetstar” and “Sweet Tangerine.” Experiment with a number of your favorite varieties to see which ones grow best for you personally.

Utilize Clean Growing Materials

Container-grown tomatoes are more likely than inground tomatoes to encounter anxiety and to become vulnerable to diseases. Give your plants a good start using clean containers and potting mixes. Before planting, scrub all portions of the pots with water and soap, and rinse them well with water. The upcoming tasks are to disinfect them with a solution that’s 1 part household bleach and nine parts water, and to rinse them thoroughly with water. Garden soil shouldn’t be utilized because it comprises fungal and bacterial pathogens and often doesn’t drain well enough. Instead, use a bought, well-draining, soilless potting mix which contains vermiculite or perlite. Cut a layer of mesh window screen to fit the interior bottom of every pot, and set the screen in place before inserting the soilless potting mix so that the mixture doesn’t leak from the pot’s drainage holes.

Supply Enough Water

Tomato plants grown in containers are far more exposed than inground tomatoes to environmental conditions because they are not surrounded by just as much insulating material growing medium. Your container tomato crops’ potting mix may have to be watered every day and sometimes twice per day, particularly if the containers are at full sunlight or so are clay pots. Windy conditions also imply more frequent watering. Water each container potting mixture until you see water coming from the container’s bottom drainage holes. Curiously, tomatoes’ potting mix shouldn’t be constantly wet, which encourages root rot. If moist potting mixture clings to your finger or a wooden pen once you inserted it into the first two inches of a tomato plant’s potting mix and eliminated it, then the potting mix doesn’t need watering.

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Since grass relies heavily on nitrogen to stay healthy and green, the chemical is often the first nutrient applied to a lawn. However, before applying hydrogen to your grass, test your soil to verify that it’s, in actuality, nitrogen deficient. If the soil sample indicates nitrogen is necessary, employ one of several effective methods to bring the mineral to your soil. Always follow label directions when using any chemicals, such as fertilizers.

Organic Approaches

Over-seeding your lawn using Dutch clover (Trifolium repens) is a simple, organic and reliable way of locking nitrogen in your soil. The clover is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. Another effective organic strategy — which keeps the grass mixture more traditional looking — would be to employ up to 1/2-inch of finished compost — the kind that looks, smells and feels like rich, dark, crumbly ground — into your lawn, a procedure known as overdressing. Another easy way to help your lawn get the nitrogen it needs would be to leave the grass clippings on the lawn after each mowing; nitrogen is reabsorbed as the clippings decompose. This alone can provide as much as half of the nitrogen a lawn needs.

Weed and Feed

A more common method for introducing nitrogen into the soil is to utilize a commercial weed and feed product. This product operates by employing a pre-emergent herbicide that destroys the weeds, while at the same time adding crucial nutrients like nitrogen and potassium back into your soil. Since weed and feed products are used in early spring before weeds have broken through the dirt, the absorbed nitrogen will provide your lawn an early-season increase.

Standard Fertilizer

Nitrogen needs of grass varies considerably based on the species: fescues, generally hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 to 7, depending on number, often need considerably less hydrogen than perennial ryegrass, hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8, while a few warm-season grasses require more of the mineral than cool-season varieties. Because many warm-season grasses tend to be heavy consumers of nitrogen, you are able to apply the mineral on a monthly basis throughout the growing season. Disperse involving .05 to 1.0 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per month (based on number), April through August. For lawns using cool-season grasses, apply .09 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet twice a year.

Too Much of a Good Thing

Care should be taken with any of these methods used to boost nitrogen in the lawn, especially with fertilizers, because too much nitrogen can cause additional issues. Although a fast greening of the grass often occurs with an overabundance of nitrogen, the lawn actually become less strain tolerant as its carbohydrate reserves are more rapidly depleted. This can cause a diminished root system or grass blades which become overly succulent — causing the blades to lose moisture too fast. Excessive nitrogen can also cause thatch accumulation.

Manage With Care

When using chemicals like weed and feed fertilizer or products, care should be taken to closely follow the manufacturer’s education. Safety equipment, like gloves and goggles, could be required. Other factors include applying the chemical when it is not windy, taking care not to pollute waterways or storm sewer systems and keeping young children and pets off the treated area for the manufacturer’s designated time frame. When using weed and feed product, read the caution region to ensure it won’t cause damage to the type of grass on your lawn.

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The crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia spp.) Is an attractive, multi-stemmed shrub or tree that’s named for its blossomsthat resemble colorful crepe paper. Several types exist, including the common crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), also a 25-foot-tall plant, and also the Japanese crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia fauriei), which is now 50 feet tall. These plants develop in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 9 and 6 through 9, respectively. In zone 9, crepe myrtles leaf out in spring and bloom in summer, together with some minor differences from year to year.

Ancient Spring Growth

The crepe myrtle is deciduous, dropping its leaves and becoming contaminated during winter, when it consumes little if any water through its roots. At USDA zone 9, winter temperatures may drop to 20 or even 30 degrees Fahrenheit for short periods of time, with the last frost typically occurring in early March. The first signs of new life on a crepe myrtle look a couple weeks later, once the inactive, or inactive, buds start to swell as the shrub begins taking up water in the soil, which starts to warm. Although spring temperatures may vary from year to year, the crepe myrtle typically has small, new leaves revealing on its branches a couple weeks after the last frost in zone 9, or at late March or early April.

A Great Spring Start

Mulching the area under a crepe myrtle will keep its roots warm during winter and early spring, however, do not mulch the plant till it’s become leafless and dormant in the fall or early winter. Mulching earlier while it’s still growing may keep the roots too warm and prevent dormancy, risking cold injury to the plant when winter arrives. Add 3 or 4 inches of straw or shredded bark on the ground under the plant’s canopy, keeping mulch back in its base to prevent moisture accumulation. In early spring, remove the winter mulch to get rid of overwintering insects and their eggs, renewing it with a brand new layer to help conserve soil moisture during the upcoming season. In spring, when you observe buds begin to swell, then water the crepe myrtle regularly to get it off to a good start, but do not overwater. Aim for approximately 1 inch of water weekly, including rainfall.

Summer Flowering

Like all plants, the crepe myrtle gets a signal to begin flowering when days get more as the season progresses. The specific timing of flowering may vary a bit among the various cultivars, but generally crepe myrtles start blooming in mid or early season, and they frequently continue thriving through summer and into early fall, with some varieties flowering until the first frost. You can prolong blooming on a crepe myrtle by removing spent flowers before they dry and produce seeds, called deadheading. This stimulates the plant to set out another flush of blossoms, although this may be smaller compared to the initial crop of blossoms.

Potential Problems

The crepe myrtle is generally a powerful, easy-to-grow plant, but it can attract aphids, soft-bodied insects that suck sap from leaves and can cause them to wilt and dry up. If uncontrolled, aphids may also assault blossom buds and destroy them until they open. Aphids are best controlled by spraying the crepe myrtle with insecticidal soap, diluted at a speed of 6 tablespoons per gallon of water. Spray until all plant parts are dripping wet, and repeat each week or 2 as required. Crepe myrtles can also be prone to powdery mildew, a fungus that causes fluffy white spots on leaves, and sooty mould, another fungus that grows as blackish, fuzzy places. Both may interfere with development of foliage and flowering. They’re best prevented by planting a crepe myrtle where air cools well, regularly clearing away debris from under the crust, and watering only with a soaker hose or drip irrigation to keep foliage dry.

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Commonly known as white champaca, Michelia champaca “Alba” is an evergreen tree having an intensely fragrant blooms and glossy foliage. It rises at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11, in which it adds a tropical appearance to glowing garden beds with mildly acidic soil. White champaca requires moderate care year to keep it looking its best, but you will be rewarded for your efforts with masses of creamy white blooms from winter.

Watering Tips

Once established, white champaca does not require heavy watering . however, it ought to be watered during the summer to stop stress and dehydration. Root problems can arise in constantly wet soil, therefore it’s vital to let the soil dry out to the surface between waterings. Water till the soil feels moderately moist at the top couple of inches. A potted white champaca tree is particularly prone to root and dehydration problems, therefore grow it into a pot with drainage holes and water it deeply but infrequently. In areas having rainy, mild winters, stop watering in winter unless it has not rained for more than two weeks.

Fertilizer Needs

White champaca is a moderately heavy feeder and requires constant levels of nutrients through the busy growing season. The type of fertilizer and application frequency depends upon the age of this tree along with its growing conditions. Younger trees that are still establishing a successful root system require a complete fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 15-15-15, while established trees benefit from a booming fertilizer having an N-P-K ratio of 7-9-5. A white champaca in full sunlight needs more frequent feedings, irrespective of age. Mix 1/2 tsp of fertilizer in 1 gallon of water. Replace a couple of weekly waterings with the fertilizer solution in early summer and spring. Reduce feeding by one-half in late summer and early autumn, and quit feeding entirely in winter.

Pruning and Grooming

A white champaca tree has a symmetrical, spreading canopy having a clearly defined trunk. It seldom requires pruning since it has a naturally neat form. Some grooming during the growing season improves the tree’s shape and keeps the plant looking tidy. Snip off any debatable growth, like suckers, water sprouts or dead branches, at their base using sturdy, sharp pruning shears. Heavy pruning reduces flowering, so avoid removing a considerable number of live growth. Always soak your pruning shears in undiluted household disinfectant for five minutes, rinse and rub them dry before using them to protect against the transmission of diseases.

Potential Problems

A white champaca tree contains few serious problems. A younger tree may have problems with root diseases, but most can be prevented by watering correctly. Mealybugs pose the most significant issue. They reveal their existence with the white, cottony matter they deposit on the leaves. Small populations of mealybugs may be removed with a strong jet of water, although heavier infestations may require chemical intervention. Mix 2 1/2 ounces of neem oil in 1 gallon of water. Apply the solution with a pump sprayer, saturating the tops and bottoms of the leaves. Duplicate the treatment two to three times weekly before the infestation subsides.

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