Giving a plant Boise a healthy beginning in the wonderful outdoors involves a great deal more than just digging a hole and sticking it in the Landscaping. While you do not need a horticulture degree, you need to take certain measures to make certain you don’t destroy the plant. The old advice to “dig a $100 hole for a $10 Stump Removal” is just a portion of the story for successfully transplanting a potted Stump Removal.
Timing
Dormancy — in late fall or early spring — is the best time to transplant plants. Fall is also a fantastic time in warm climates. Unless the plant Chico is bare-root, it can be transplanted at any given time between when the ground Fresno thaws and when it freezes, as long as you care for it properly. This means in the event that you transplant in the warmth of summer you will need to be diligent in watering. It also means that you can plant year-round within a frost-free climate.
Choose the Site
Gardeners have a lot of sayings and one of the most important to remember is “Right plant, right location.” It’s easy to fall in love with a plant for a specific spot in the backyard, but it isn’t wise. Plants have varying levels of tolerance to conditions such as sunlight, shade, wind and dirt. Take overhead electricity lines into consideration when deciding on a site for a tree that may grow tall. Some plants will grow wide, so sites near structures may not be a fantastic selection. Choose the planting site having an eye on the plant’s characteristics at maturity and its maintenance requirements.
Check the Soil
Few crops thrive in soggy soil. Most plants need excellent drainage to prevent root rot and other issues. Examine the ground for adequate drainage by digging a 12-inch-deep, 12-inch-wide hole and filling it up with water. Permit the water to drain overnight and then fill the hole with water the following day. Measure the thickness of water after one hour. If it is less than 2 inches, you will need to choose a new site, build a raised bed or amend the soil with organic material, such as a 2- to 3-inch layer of compost dug to the region.
Remove the Plant
Water the plant thoroughly before removing it in the grass. Turn the grass over and tap across the sides and the rim to loosen the plant and then slip it out. As you work with the plant, manage it by the roots and not the trunk or main stem. If the plant was root-bound you’ll notice roots circling across the plant. Either loosen the roots with your fingers or use a sharp knife to slice 1 to 2 inches to the root ball, either from top to bottom, on four sides of it.
Dig the Hole
Dig the planting hole the exact same depth as the plant is growing in the grass and double the width of this grass. Instead of a hole having straight sides, slope the sides so the top of the hole is broader than the bottom. Some plants, such as roses (Rosa spp.) , which develop in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, based on species and hostas (Hosta spp.) , which develop in USDA zones 3 through 9, demand a little mound or hill in the bottom of the hole. Arrange the origins over the hill so they hang down over the sides. They should hardly brush the dirt in the bottom of the hole so add or remove dirt from the hill to get it to the proper height.
Planting
Once you have the plant’s origins in the hole, fill the hole about halfway with soil. Run water into the hole till it is full and let it drain. As the water heater, it removes air pockets in the ground. Finish filling the hole with dirt and use your hands to tamp the ground around the base of the plant. For larger trees, then use your feet to tamp the dirt, but do not compact it too much. Several plants benefit from a layer of organic mulch around them. Add a 1- to 3-inch layer, put 6 inches away from the base of the plant and then spread it to the dirt, completely surrounding the plant. Water the plant to the thickness it had been planted and keep the soil slightly moist as it becomes established. You will know this has happened when you see new growth.