Your yard probably has just taken a beating this summer — family gatherings, bring with the dog, and kids’ games and toys have probably been working jointly with drought and heat to earn your grass gasp to get a breather. If your yard is in need of a little TLC, you’re in luck — fall is the ideal time to revitalize it so that the next season’s grass is the greenest and healthiest it can be.
1. Know your bud. There are cool-season and warm-season grasses, and many varieties in each category.
Cool-season grasses (Kentucky bluegrass, fescue, perennial ryegrass) are far better suited for cooler climates, are most productive in spring and fall, occasionally require more irrigation and are generally mowed higher than warm-season grasses due to their erect growth habit. Warm-season grasses (Bermuda, St. Augustine, big bluestem) grow best in warmer climates, are typically more drought tolerant and are often mowed at lower heights.Be sure to check with the local lawn experts for certain recommendations for turf grass in your town.
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2. Fertilize. In the fall, fertilize your yard with an NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) ratio of 3-1-2 or 4-1-2. The ratio doesn’t have to be exact, but do attempt to obtain a product with comparable quantities. Strategy to use approximately 1 pound of fertilizer per 1,000 square feet of yard and always stick to the package instructions. Applying too much fertilizer will not help your bud and, in actuality, may damage .
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3. Dethatch. Thatch is the buildup of dead roots and stems which develop between the soil and the green grass blades.
If you have just a little buildup, you can use a hard rake or a dethatching rake to remove the dead grass, but if you have over 1/2 inch you will have to core aerate from the fall or the spring.
Core aeration utilizes rentable gear to remove plugs of soil, raising the soil’s ability to get water, fertilizer and air. If your buildup is thicker than 2/3 inch, you will have to not just core aerate but add 1/8 to 1/4 inch of organic matter like compost or peat. Water in well.
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4. Control weeds. September and October are the best months to control perennial broadleaf weeds like clover and dandelions. These weeds are busy taking in sun and nourishment to get them during the winter months, so that means they are open to receiving weed killers too.
If you have just a couple of weeds, then pull them out , but more numerous weeds may require extra tactics or chemicals — either organic or nonorganic. Much like fertilizers, always stick to the package instructions when applying any chemical to your yard to prevent damaging it and the surrounding crops. Do not worry about any bare spots made by marijuana removal; your healthful bud will take over those areas very quickly.
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5. Sow grass seeds. If you have large bare spots left by marijuana removal or simply need to set up a new or extended part of your yard, mid-August to mid-September is the best time to sow grass seeds. Always check with your county extension office or trustworthy local nursery about the best times to sow seeds in your town, however.
Before you sow, make certain that you have ready the soil properly to find the best outcomes. Till the soil at least 6 inches deep, add 1/2 to 1 inch or so of mulch or peat, rake the soil smooth and sow the seeds. Water in well and keep the soil consistently moist until after the new growth emerges, approximately 6 weeks.
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