Magnolias (genus Magnolia) are a family of flowering trees and shrubs which are among the first to bloom each spring. Hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, magnolias open their huge, distinctive, saucer-like flowers prior to their leaves grass. These trees make striking ornamentals but also are sensitive to change, so monitor your magnolia carefully for signs of infection or injury.

Consider seasonal shift. Deciduous species of magnolias naturally change colour and lose their leaves in the autumn, and might occasionally start this process early when there’s a sudden drop in temperature. Magnolias also shed a small number of leaves naturally during the year, as older leaves eventually become worn and are replaced with fresh growth. In case a few person leaves are yellowing, with no sign of spread throughout a larger area of the tree, there’s ordinarily no need for worry.

Assess recent weather conditions. If there has been a sudden frost, a heat wave or a lengthy period of drought, then the magnolia leaves might be turning yellow due to weather damage. Though mature magnolias do not ordinarily need hand-watering, they should be watered during periods of low rainfall to help reduce wilting leaves. Make sure that the soil around your magnolia is well irrigated, as poor drainage can also bring about leaf discoloration.

Check your tree for signs of harm. Splits or cracks in the tree’s bark can lead to infection and make the tree more vulnerable to changing weather conditions. Prune back any snapped or dangling branches to the collar of the branch, making clean, diagonal cuts to encourage rapid healing.

Examine your soil using a soil test kit purchased from a nursery or garden center. Leaf discoloration can occasionally result from nutrient deficiencies or chemical imbalances in the ground. Iron deficiency is a frequent cause of yellowing leaves in magnolias. If your land has a high pH level, making iron less available, reduce the soil alkalinity using peat moss or another organic fertilizer.

Discontinue use of deicing solutions or other goods containing salt which may leach into the soil around your magnolia tree. High salt levels can inhibit the tree’s ability to take in water, resulting in yellow and wilting leaves.

Prevent problems before they start by supplying your magnolia tree great care during the season. Make sure that your tree contains affluent, well-drained soil and plenty of sun. Mulch around the base of the magnolia each spring to help keep moisture and keep down weeds. Avoiding heavy pruning, whenever possible, since pruning causes the tree more vulnerable to injury and infection.

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Also known as yardlong bean, asparagus bean (Vigna unguiculata subsp. Sesquipedalis (L.) Verde) is distinguished by the edible bean pods that frequently reach lengths of up to 36 inches. The plant, which grows to 9 to 12 feet, is also planted for its ornamental qualities and violet flowers. Asparagus bean is at precisely the same plant family as the black-eyed pea. Although the plant is a legume, it is not related to snap beans or pole beans.

Bacterial Blight

Halo bacterial blight (Pseudomonas syringae pathovar phaseolicola), shows up as wilted foliage and brownish spots that appear on the leaves and pods. The blight is readily recognized because every brown spot is surrounded by a distinct yellow halo. Halo blight often occurs as a consequence of damp, cool weather, as asparagus beans need warm, well-drained soil. Treat affected beans with a copper-based fungicide. To prevent halo bacterial blight, avoid using sprinklers. Instead, keep the foliage dry by watering in the base of the plant. Alternate planting locations at least once every three decades, as the blight stays in the soil for two decades.

Root Rot

Root rots are brought on by fungi that live in the soil. When asparagus beans have been implanted in affected soil, the beans frequently fail to germinate. If they do emerge, then the leaves turn yellow and the plant finally rots and dies. The primary rots affecting asparagus beans are Fusarium root rot (Fusarium solani) and Rhizoctonia root rot (Rhizoctonia solani). Both produce mushy, rotted stems and yellow, withered leaves, as well as red spots at the base of the stems, or on the stem just below the soil. To prevent root rot, find a new spot to plant the seeds following year, as the fungi can dwell in the soil as long as six decades. Keep the region around the plants clean and remove infected leaves. Plant asparagus beans at well-drained soil or raised beds.

Fungal Diseases

Asparagus beans are vulnerable to many fungal diseases in addition to root rots. Fungal diseases include white mold (Sclerotinia sclerotioru), suggested by a fuzzy white material that develops on the stalks, leaves and pods. Likewise powdery mildew isn’t difficult to spot from the white, powdery coating on the leaves and pods. Sometimes, a strong stream of water directed at the affected region removes mould and powdery mildew. Some types of fungal disorder cause dark spots on the leaves similar to halo blight, but without the yellow halo. To manage bacterial disorders, prune and dispose of affected regions. Make sure the plants are not crowded, as asparagus beans requires air circulation. You might need to use commercial fungicides if the disease is severe.

Aphids and Spider Mites

While asparagus beans are affected by various pests, most are nuisances that cause little harm. Aphids and spider mites can cause damage to the plant if left untreated. Spider mites are tiny and difficult to see, but they abandon a fine webbing on the undersides of the leaves. The leaves of a badly infested plant might look scorched. Spider mites frequently appear on plants that are not adequately watered, as the insects like dry, dusty conditions. Aphids are tiny bugs, but they are sometimes seen on the undersides or joints of leaves. Aphids suck the sap from the leaves, leaving a sweet material that frequently develops black sooty mould. Light infestations of aphids and spider mites are sometimes removed with a strong stream of water. Treat heavier infestations with insecticidal soap spray.

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Aquatic snails add a fantastic deal to your backyard pond health and water quality. Oddly attractive, snails function as nutrient recyclers that encourage clear water. They perform highly supportive functions in populating brand new and established aquatic ecosystems with beneficial bacteria. Snails have traditionally been somewhat overrated as top-notch pond scavengers. While they eat their fair share of algae, decaying leaves, and rotting leftover fish food, they do not eat fish waste, blue-green brown or algae pond scum. The secret to introducing snails for your pond lies in selecting varieties that complement the ecosystem.

Evaluate your garden pond’s features to determine which variety and the number of snails will work nicely for you. Take into account your winter climate and the size of your pond. Water gardeners cherish their own water garden plants, which most snails devour with relish. Nearly all pond snails are hermaphroditic (both female and male, self-fertilizing), a particularly unappealing trait which allows them to breed prolifically in will and overrun a pond very quickly.

Select Japanese black trapdoor snails (Viviparis malleatus) in climates with harsh winters. Also acceptable for warm areas, Japanese trapdoor is the only freshwater snail species which doesn’t eat live pond plants. These snails are not quite prolific, require both female and male to reproduce, and breed just twice annually. They do not litter the pond with eggs as they bear a few live young every year. A couple of members of this mystery (Ampullaria) and ramshorn (Planorbidae) snail groups are not as destructive to plants as several other snails, however they breed and reproduce so prolifically that they are frequently regarded more as pests than creatures.

Purchase snails from reputable suppliers. A good guideline for deciding the number of snails to buy is no more than 1 animal for approximately every square foot of pond floor surface area.

Float the clear plastic bag of snails in the pond water for approximately ten minutes to permit them to slowly acclimate to the temperature. Open the bag and fill it halfway with water. Close the bag and let it float for another 10 minutes as the snails adapt to this change in water composition. Dump the snails to the shallowest portion of this pond. Snails lock themselves up in their shells when angry or afraid, so that they may appear lifeless or lifeless. They’ll soon begin poking their way across the pond floor.

Put a large lettuce leaf to the bottom of the pond and then weigh it down with a stone if you have not seen your snails within several days of releasing them. This is typical of this mollusks, which are hard to see because they mix in with stones, the pond floor. Return in two or three hours and scoop out the lettuce leaf. It ought to be covered with aquatic snails.

Supply your pond snails with a supply of calcium for shell health in case your water pH is below 7.0. Calcium deficiencies cause shells to eventually become pitted and thin, and are detrimental to their general well-being. These deficiencies do not occur in difficult water conditions. Pet and pond provide retailers offer appropriate calcium supplemental materials including dolomite, limestone and coralline stones and gravels. Granular calcium carbonate functions nicely, also. Follow the packaging instructions for amounts and frequency of use.

Feed your snails regularly if you are not feeding any fish which are leaving uneaten food supporting. While snails eat plenty of algae, the plant doesn’t constitute a nutritionally complete diet for them. Offer a large lettuce leaf or 1/4-inch piece of raw zucchini once or twice weekly. Weigh the veggie down with a stone. Contrary to many traditionally held beliefs, snails aren’t pooper-scoopers and will not absorb the waste products of other river residents. In the absence of adequate food, almost all of snail species may turn to eating crops, alternative snails and even little fish to survive.

Maintain your water amount as low as you can if you maintain large aquatic snails. A number of them are very adept at escaping the pond, especially at nighttime. Toss stranded snails back into the water once you locate them, even if they appear lifeless and all dried up. They’re fairly likely to survive.

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